



1^ 



y# /\.l«^#" -^^ '^W*' /'^ 












"-.^^^^ 
























'?^°-^*^ -J 













,*^ 






JOURNAL 




WILLIAM H. RICHAEDSON, wj 

A PRIVATE SOLDIER 



IN THE CAMPAIGN OP 



Nctu anb ©U iWcjeico 




^T" 



A CAMP Mf:SS. 



NEW-YORK: 

PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM H. RICHARDSON. 



849. 



m 






JOURNAL 



WILLIAM H. RICHARDSON, 



A PRIVATE SOLDIER 



IN THE CAMPAIGN OP 



J^ctD an& ©1& Mexico^ 



UNDER THE COMMAND OF 



COLONEL DONIPHAN 

OF MISSOURI. 



TH IRD EDITION, 



NEW-YORK: 

PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM H. RICHARDSON. 
1849. 



.f\ SA- 



Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year 1848, by 



WILLIAM H. RICHARDSON 



in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Maryland. 



1 



D. FANSHAW, 
BOOK AND JOB PRINTER, 

CoToer of Ann aad Nassau-streetai 



JOURNAL. 



I LEFT my home on West River, Anne Arundel 
County, Md., the 11th November, 1845, for a southern 
tour, and after visiting the principal places of the south 
and west, inspecting the country, and meeting with 
adventures familiar to all who travel, I found myself, 
the following spring, located permanently a few miles 
fi'om Carrollton, Carroll County, Missouri, boarding in 
the family of Judge Rea, a clever gentlemanly man. 
Here I formed numerous acquaintances, among them, 
an old Capt. Markle, who informed me of his intention 
to visit California, and depicted in glowing terms the 
pleasure of travelling in nev/ countries, &c. In the 
meantime, a company of mounted volunteers was being 
formed in the neighborhood, under Capt. Williams, in 
which many young men whom I knew, had enlisted. 
This, together with the enthusiasm which prevailed at 
a public meeting on the 4th of July, (when the ladies 
of Carrollton presented the company a beautiful flag, 
and many speeches were made) — caused me to decide 
and join the company. I immediately set about prepar- 
ing — bought my regimentals, canteen, saddlebags, also 
some books and a writing apparatus for convenience in 
noting down the occurrences of each day, thinking it pro- 
bable, should I live to return, it might be a source of 
amusement to my friends in Maryland. 

August 4th, 1846. — This morning we started for Fort 
Leavenworth. Many of my friends came to take break- 
fast with me at Squire Dorr's. We met our Captain at 
Carrollton, where a public dinner was given. The com- 
pany formed and marched to the table in order. In the 
evening we mounted our fine horses and proceeded out 
of town. We passed the Prairie, 30 miles wide, and rode 



as far as the residence of Dr. Arnold. There were fifteen 
of us in company, separated from the lest, and all in search 
of quarters. 

Having to water our horses, the Doctor directed us 
where to go. The way was plainly pointed out, but to 
our astonishment, we all got lost in the timber. We 
rode till very late, and might have been put to great incon- 
venience, had we not met with a servant who set us right. 
We returned to the Doctor's to muse on our mishap, and 
to enjoy more hospitality. An ominous beginning for a 
soldier's life. 

6th. — Started this morning in company with the Doctor 
and his lady, who went with us eight miles to Lexington, 
and thence to Richmond, where we arrived at 4 o'clock. 
A few miles further on we encamped. I rode all this day 
without my dinner. Having had opportunity to become 
better acquainted with my Captain and other officers, I 
find them very clever and kind. 

Qth. — I discovered this morning that my horse was lame 
from tightness of his shoes. Went to town to a black- 
smith who re-shod him. The company could not wait 
for me, and I travelled alone through a beautiful forest of 
sugar trees. Passed Elke Horn, and rode until within 
six miles of Liberty. Here I found our baggage team 
had given out. Our Captain had gone ahead with the 
company, and left the second Lieutenant, Mr. Smith, in 
charge. I discovered Lieut. Smith to be a man of very 
tender feelings. Several of our company were taken with 
chills to-night, which is rather discouraging. 

1th. — At day-light this morning our train was under 
way, arrived in town for breakfast, after which our Captain 
marched us all over the city. It is a beautiful inland 
place of 1000 inhabitants. Fifteen miles further on we 
met our first Lieutenant, just from the Fort. He told us 
to hurry on and get mustered into service before the other 
companies should crowd in. We hurried accordingly and 
reached Piatt City at sim-set. I was fatigued and hungry, 
and went into the hotel to get my supper ; when I came 
out, I found our third Lieutenant had come up Avith the 
rest of the men, and were ready to start for the ferry. 



I went on with them. We arrived at the ferry, opposite 
Fort Leavenworth, about 12 o'clock at night. I went in 
search of something for my horse. There was a widow 
lady Uving near, to whom I appKed, and she very pleasant- 
ly told me " to go to the crib and help myself." I went, 
fed my horse, and spent the rest of the night on the un- 
husked ears in the crib, where I slept soundly. 

8^/i. — Rose early and went in search of my Captain. 
Found him, with many others, between some fallen trees, 
wrapped up in their blankets, fast asleep on the sand. 
We soon prepared for crossing the river, which I felt to 
be the bidding adieu to friends and home, and almost civi- 
lization itself. I was the only one who had taken re- 
freshment. It was fortunate for me that I had made a 
second visit to the widow and obtained a good breakfast. 
W^e were soon all safely over the ferry, 85 in number, men 
of all grades and dispositions, some very facetious, and 
others reserved and thoughtful. We were all huddled to- 
gether, and ordered to form in double file, to proceed two 
miles from the Fort to erect our tents. We had to wait some 
time for the wagons which contained our provisions, con- 
sisting of mess pork, sugar, coffee, &c. The head of 
each mess — six in number, had to apply to the Sergeant 
for the necessary supplies. Having been appointed to the 
charge of my msr^s, I went up, took my share, and helped 
the men to theirs. The first meal I tasted in the Indian 
territory was supper, and such a supper ! It was composed 
of hard water crackers and mess pork, which would cut 
five inches through the ribs. I boiled my pork for nearly 
two hours, and found it still so tough that it was harder 
labor than I had been at all day to eat it. Necessity is the 
mother of invention, and I fell upon an expedient by 
which to dispatch it ; I took it out, stewed and fried it. 
But it w^as yet spongy and stuck in my teeth. I made 
out, however, with the assistance of a keen appetite ; and 
being very tired, I laid myself dovv^n on my blanket in 
the tent. I had not lain many minutes when our Orderly 
came by, calling upon the men to form a line. We had 
much rather slept, but to obey was our duty, and we 
were soon in the line. We were then drilled by a young 
1* 



officer from the Fort. After drill, the officers commenced 
counting us off from right to left, and every fourth man 
had to stand guard. 

I was taken as one of the fourth men and placed with 
eleven others at No. 1, where I had to walk my post two 
hours. It was quite long enough for a beginning, and I 
resigned the post with pleasure, when the time expired. 
At 12 o'clock the relief guard put a man in my place, and 
I went rejoicing to my rest. 

Sunday^ 9th. — This morning I had to get breakfast for 
the first time in my life ; I was perfectly green at the busi- 
ness, but it had to be done. I filled the kettle with water, 
browned my coffee, fried the pork, &c. I went on very 
well until by an unlucky mishap I upset the kettle, and 
put out the fire. Nothing daunted by the misfortune, I 
entered upon another trial and was more successful. We 
paraded immediately after breakfast, and prepared to go 
to the Fort, where we had the honor of being mustered 
into service by our Colonel. He called our names, and 
as each passed before him, he was asked his age, and as 
many other questions as would afford a pretty good des- 
cription of his person and history of his life. The Arti- 
cles of War were then read, and we formed a line and re- 
turned to camp. The roll was called soon after, and all 
that were not present, had to keep guard. So much for 
playing truant on an occasion of so much importance. I 
was fortunate enough to be present, and escaped the in- 
fliction. 

12th. — The past two or three days were employed in 
strict attention to the duties of a soldier, such as cooking, 
drilling, &c. To-day, Col. Price assembled the whole 
regiment at the Fort, to have an appraisement of horses, 
saddles, &c. In the afternoon I rode back to the en- 
campment on a large bag of beef in the hot sun. A se- 
vere headache was my travelling companion. 

I4,th. — Yesterday and to-day we had a terrible job, 
breaking mules to the wagons. It is difficult to muster 
these stubborn animals into service. I, with a fellow 
soldier, was detained from the Fort till a late hour. 
We were employed in the novel pursuit of pulling two 



' of the mules by main force through the hazel bushes two 
miles. Only think of it ! Two of Uncle Sam's worthies 
pulling a jackass apiece two miles through the bushes 
While at the Fort I called on the minister, who was very 
kind and affectionate in his conversation and manners. 
( He presented me a Testament, Prayer Book, and a bundle 
of Tracts — at night we threw copies into each tent, and 
then sung hymns until it was time to retire. 

Ibth. — This was our washing day. I went with the 
rest of the b'hoys to the branch, where we kindled three 
large fires, and put up our camp kettles to boil the 
clothes. I never boiled any before, and I felt pretty 
much as I did when I began to cook breakfast. I went 
to work awkwardly enough, as my scalded hands bore 
witness. But a man can even wash his clothes when he 
is obliged to do it, the opinions of the ladies to the contra- 
ry notwithstanding. In the evening we ceased our labors 
as washers of clothes, and went into the branch and wash- 
ed ourselves. After bathing we returned to camp quite 
refreshed. 

Sunday, 16th. — This morning I thought I would hear 
the Missionary preach — and with several others, started 
for the purpose. Just before we got to the village, an 
Indian informed us there would be no preaching that 
day. We were greatly disappointed, and turned to wan- 
der about awhile and survey the country around. It was 
wild and picturesque, and the sight of it was gratifying. 
We met a number of Indians. Their language and 
gesture were very strange, and they presented a most 
outlandish appearance. Many of them came into our 
camp with a variety of things to sell. When we re- 
turned, our camp was nearly deserted. The men had 
gone to the Fort for equipments to commence our march. 
We hurried on, but only to be disappointed again. Too 
many companies were in before us. We went back to 
the camp, and spent the day quietly. 

18^A. — Every man was well fitted out with a musket 
and fifteen cartridges, a load of guns having been brought 
from the Fort. I have now become accustomed to im- 
plicit obedience to orders — going and returning on 



8 

errands to thxC Fort — breaking mules, looking for strayed 
horses, cooking breakfast, washing clothes, &c. At night 
it rained hard, and while I tried to compose myself to 
sleep, I felt the shower dripping in my face. 

20th. — The important morning had now arrived. It 
was the morning on which we were to " strike our tents 
and march away" for California. All was bustle and 
excitement, and we poor privates had to load the wag- 
ons with provisions for our long march. It fell to my 
lot as usual, to handle the bacon, pork, &c. And yet 
another trial awaited me : we had not travelled more 
than a mile, when we came to a deep slough or pond, 
through which I had to guide a mule. It was the first 
time I had the honor of leading a mule in gears. I had 
to dismount and wade through thick mud up to my waist. 
I had rather carried the mule on my back over a better 
road. What made the matter worse, I had my new clothes 
on, and they were almost ruined by the adventure. On 
stopping to encamp, a messmate kindly poured on water, 
while I washed the mud off, as well as I could, and laid 
down in my wet garments, very weary with my day's 
journey. 

21st. — We are now fairly in the Indian country. 
The place assigned by the Government for the future 
residence of the tribes who have emigrated from the 
States. Here we found the prairies covered with grass 
— a seasonable supply for our horses, and a drove of 
ninety-five beeves, which we had brought out for present 
use. A strong guard was stationed around the encamp- 
ment, at night, as roving bands of Indians were lurking 
around us, ready to seize any thing they could lay their 
hands on. We had travelled 12 miles when our Captain 
thought it best to encamp for the night, as we found a 
little wood. The want of timber is a great defect in this 
otherwise beautiful country. 

22nd. — We started this morning at 8 o'clock, and trav 
elled 15 miles through a lovely region, when we came to 
a settlement of the Delaware Indians. Their houses and 
plantations bear evident marks of civilization. In com- 
pany with our first Lieutenant, I called at a house, in the 



9 

door of which sat two squaws making moccasons. 
Stretched on a bench near by, lay an Indian fast asleep. 
He was a man of most powerful dimensions, at least 
six feet four, and fat withal. By his side rested a club 
full of notches. We did not care to disturb his repose, 
for we had slight misgivings that a notch or two more 
in that fatal war club, might record the finale of our own 
history. We left him to his slumber, and hastened to the 
river, where we found several companies of our compan- 
ions buying and selling among the squaws. Whiskey was 
the principal commodity, and a number of Indians were so 
much intoxicated that they could hardly tell a tree from a 
moccason. The ferry is kept by the Indians. The 
Kansas river at this place is a bold stream ; it was, never- 
theless, safely passed by all, using boats only for our 
wagons ; about sun-set all landed, and we encamped 
about a mile from the river. 

Sunday, 2od. — Again we started on our journey. 
After the first ten miles of a broken country, some high 
hills appeared. They were very difficult of ascent, and 
we had much trouble with our teams. In two places 
we had to put our shoulders to the wheels. Orders were 
given that every man should secure what wood he could 
find, and we commenced packing it before us on our 
horses. A picturesque scene we must have presented, 
each man with his load of wood before him on his horse. 
While riding in this way we overtook Lieutenant Colonel 
Mitchell. 

24^/1 — After passing a few clumps of trees, an im- 
mense prairie spread out before us, extending as far as 
the eye could reach. At 12 o'clock we came to a branch 
and encamped. The water here is in standing pools, 
and before drinking and making cofiee, we were obliged 
to strain it through our handkerchiefs. While thus en- 
gaged, two Indians of the Sac Tribe made their appear- 
ance. They were elegantly mounted, but painted and 
tattooed in a frightful manner. They are smaller in stat- 
ure than the Delawares, and at war with them. They 
called at our camp as a matter of curiosit}^ One of my 
mess, Levi Flowers, received a severe kick in his face 



10 

from a horse, which nearly killed him. His face was 
much swollen. 

26tL—The companies are now all united ; having 
overtaken each other at different places. Our force was 
1200 strong. We travelled all day in sight of trees like 
little dots on the horizon. At the end of our day's march 
we hoped to find water, ^ood water, which our poor fel- 
lows needed after a long hot march, with nothino- to pro- 
tect their heads from the rays of the sun, but their glazed 
caps. The goal was reached. We rested beneath the 
shade of a small skirt of woods. 

2QtL — As usual, 8 o'clock found us ready to start. After 
a march of 14 miles, we encamped on Beaver Creek 
We killed a beef; and the soldiers busied themselves in 
cooking supper. Not having conveniences of home at 
hand, we dispensed with our dinner daily- and satisfied 
ourselves v^^ith eating morning and night. Our Captain is 
a good sort of man, and will no doubt do the best he can 
for us. And now while speaking of the Captain, I will 
say a word or two about our Lieutenants. Our first 
Lieutenant, Mr. White, is nearly always in a good humor. 
He IS large and somewhat corpulent— enjoys a lauo-h 
very much. He weighs 220lbs. net. Our second Lieu- 
tenant, Mr. Smith, is of the middle size, very facetious, 
and always ready to accommodate. Our third Lieuten- 
ant, Mr. Rock, was formerly a captain of Militia, but vol- 
unteering to go with the army to California, we elected 
him third Lieutenant. He is a little over the middle size, 
and very reserved and stately. 

27M.— After travelling twelve miles we reached the 
encampment of the Marion company, where we found a 
poor fellow who was accidentally shot last nio-ht, by a 
revolving pistol. Two men are left to take care of him. 
It is^ thought he cannot survive. Poor fellow! His 
^te is a sad one. Pursuing our journey, we passed 
Beaver Creek, and after travelling 18 miles, came to the 
Big John River, where we encamped for the night. 

28th.— The Captain told us this morning that^ve should 
stop here for a day or two to rest ourselves. And now 
began a most ludicrous scene. Every camp kettle and 



11 

other vessel that would hold water was brought in requi- 
sition, and the whole regiment commenced washing 
their clothes. To me it was a most singular sight. 
While rubbing away at our clothes a rumor reached us 
that we were on the route to Santa Fe, instead of Cali- 
fornia. This was news, and what with washing and what 
with talking we were kept pretty busy. On the route to 
Santa Fe, though we entered the journey for California. 
But alas ! no matter where we are. We found our trip 
was not a "pleasure excursion," as many of our imagina- 
tions had so often pictured. The two soldiers we left, 
to-day have just come in, after digging the grave of their 
poor comrade. 

2^th. — This morning we caught some black trout and 
catfish in the Big John. They were very fine. Colonel 
Price had gone ahead, and at 12 o'clock we struck our 
tents, passed Council Grove, and encamped at 2 o'clock, 
a few miles further on, where there is a blacksmith shop, 
established by the government. Here I left letters for my 
friends in Maryland, to be carried back by the return mail 
to Fort Leavenworth. 

Sunday^ SOth. — Saw near the road, one of those sin- 
gular mounds, of which I have so often read. It towered 
beautifully to the height of 100 feet. It may have been a 
mount of observation ; it may be filled with the bones of 
the red men of the forest. I have no time, however, to 
speculate upon subjects so foreign from my present em- 
ployment. At the end of 8 miles, we came to Rock Creek, 
and 7 miles further we arrived at Diamond Spring, where 
we halted for the night. 

Slst, — This morning I filled my canteen with the re- 
freshing water of Diamond Spring. At the Spring I count- 
ed 45 wagons loaded with provisions for the army. Yes- 
terday we entered upon the far-famed plains at Rock 
Creek. The scenery presents a dull monotony, a vast 
plain, almost level, bounded by the horizon, and covered 
with a thin sward and herbage. 

September 1st. — Came to a place called the " Lost 
Spring," a most singular curiosity. The stream rises 
suddenly out of the ground, and after rushing over the 



12 

sand a few yards, as suddenly sinks, and is no more 
seen. 

2nd. — To-day we are at the Cotton Wood Fork. It 
takes its name from a large cluster of cotton trees, the first 
I had seen after leaving Diamond Spring. There is 
a good stream of water here, and we enjoyed the blessing 
of a fine shower of rain. A little misunderstanding took 
place among the ofiicers about starting. Some of them 
were too slow in their movements, and caused our Captain 
to collect his men and make a speech. Several of the 
men were disgusted and became uproarious. A march of 
eight miles, however, to Turkey Creek, settled the ques- 
tion, and all appeared in pretty good humor. Three 
miles further on, we came to Second Turkey Creek, nine 
miles beyond to Third Turkey Creek, and encamped. 
Turkey Creeks are plenty in this vicinity. How we 
would have rejoiced if the turkeys had been as plenty as 
the tides of the streams indicated. Third Turkey Creek 
is a lovely stream, running through the prairie. Here we 
wanted wood to cook with. As yet we had not seen any 
game, with the exception of two rabbits, caught by our 
men. They were of a novel species, almost white, with 
long black ears, and as large as a grey fox. 

3f/. — About 12 o'clock to-day we came in sight of 
timber. Passed the Fourth Turkey Creek, and after trav- 
elling 18 miles, encamped on the banks of the little Arkan- 
sas, which at some seasons is a bold stream, with tremen- 
dous cliffs that can be seen at a long distance. 

Ath. — We are all huddled together in our tents, in con- 
sequence of a heavy storm of wind and rain, which came 
on last night. Some of the tents blew down, and most o^ 
the company were in a bad fix. Fires were necessary to 
keep us warm. We left at 8 o'clock, and after travelling 
10 miles, came to Owl Creek. Five miles from Owl 
Creek we reached Cow Creek, where we encamped. 
On the left we could see clifis and timber at a great dis- 
tance, and some small white spots like sand hills. On 
the right, nothing but a vast prairie. Just before we ar- 
rived at the Cow Creek, an antelope was started. Our 
boys gave chase and fired several times, but they missed 



13 

him and he finally escaped. They must shoot better in 
fight with the enemy. We had scarcely fixed up our tents, 
when the news came that a buffalo was in sight. In an 
instant, men on horseback, fully armed, were in pursuit 
from every direction. He was less fortunate than the 
antelope. The men had improved a little, and they over- 
took their game after a considerable chase, during which 
they fired fifty times. They killed him at last, and brought 
some of the flesh to the camp. It was of very little use, 
for with all our cooking, it was too tough to eat. He was 
a bull at least 20 years old. We had better let the old 
patriarch run. 

Arkansas Bend, Saturday, 6th. — Here we stopped last 
night, after a most exciting day. Herds of buifalo were 
seen scattered over the plains. The best hunters were 
picked out to secure as many as possible. The chase was 
a fine one, 13 were killed by the different companies. I 
strolled away from camp alone, to one of those myste- 
rious mounds, which occur so frequently to the traveller 
among these wilds. On ascending it, I enjoyed a most 
magnificent prospect. It has the appearance of a Fort, 
but when aiid for what purpose erected, will long remain 
a matter of uncertainty. I lingered so long that on my 
return I found that my company had gone forward, but I 
soon overtook them. To-day we came to Walnut Creek, 
6 miles from the mound. I felt stupid and sick ; as I was 
placed on guard last night, on the banks of the Arkansas. 
I was all alone in the deep midnight, and I sat three long 
hours, with my musket, looking up and down the stream. 
I could see a great distance, as the sand on the shore is 
very white. 

Ith. — W^e were preparing to take a buffalo chase, 
when word was brought that the whole command must 
be moving. We were much disappointed, for we ex- 
pected fine sport in the chase. On our route to-day, we 
passed Ash Creek, and five miles on came to Pawnee 
Fork. We saw herds of buffalo, and sarrounded one, 
but they made a break towards the road, and crossed 
among the teams. They did no damage, hovv^ever, nor 
was much damage done to them. I rode on briskly to 
2 



14 

overtake a friend, when my horse trod in a hole made by 
prairie dogs, (a small animal and very numerous here,) 
and fell with me. I received no injury except a little 
skin rubbed off my knee. On remounting, my attention 
was arrested by a horse running at full speed, and drag- 
ging something on the ground. When he came closer, I 
discovered it to be a man whom hisliorse had thrown. 
The frightened animal stopped a little ahead of me, and I 
rode up, e^fpecting to see a dead man, but as soon as his 
foot was extricated from the stirrup, to the surprise of all, 
he stood up and said that he was not much hurt. He said 
that he regretted most of all the loss of his clothes, which 
were torn in shreds from his body. Another man be- 
longing to our company, by the name of Red wine, had 
a severe fall. He was taken into camp nearly dead. 
Chase was made again after buffalo, which appeared in 
thousands. Many antelopes also appeared, but it re- 
quires the fleetest horses to overtake them. Before we 
encamped we saw near the road side a little mound of 
stones, on one of which was engraved the name of R. T. 
Ross. It was supposed to be the grave of a man who was 
murdered by the Indians in 1840. He is resting in a lone- 
ly spot. 

Sth. — We are now on the banks of the great Arkansas 
river, after marching many miles through a barren and 
dreary looking country, almost destitute of grass or herb- 
ap-e. Here there is some improvement in this respect. 
A heavy rain caused our tents to leak, and drenched the 
poor soldiers, so that they passed a very uncomfortable 
night. 

9^^. — Kept up the river ten miles. A few scattered 
cotton trees, and cliiFs, and sand banks are the only things 
to be seen. One of Col. Mitchell's men was near being 
killed to-day by an Indian. He had chased a buffalo two 
miles from camp, when an arrow was shot, which pierced 
his clothes ; the poor fellow made all the haste he could 
to camp, with the arrow sticking in his pants. It was well 
it was not in his skin. 

IQth. — Last night, as soon as we were all snugly fixed, 
and ready for sleep, there arose a fearful storm of wind 



15 

and rain, which gave our tents and ourselves a good 
shaking. Some of the tents v^rere blown down, break- 
ing in their fall the ridgepoles of others, and bringing 
them down also. In our tent, four of us held on with all 
our might, for nearly two hours, to keep it standing. To- 
day we continued our march, travelling 15 miles, on the 
banks of the river. We saw a large flock of wild geese 
and tried to get a shot, but without success. They were 
too wild for us. 

nth. — The weather was quite cold this morning, and 
there was so dense a fog as to prevent us from seeing a 
hundred yards ahead. There was an antelope killed to- 
day. The flesh tasted like mutton. Vv^e encamped by 
the side of the river, and an opportunity was afforded us 
of catching fish, which we accomplished by the novel 
mode of spearing them with the bayonet. Several dozens 
were caught, and we found them delicious. 

12th. — Resumed our journey through the same scenery 
12 miles ; many antelopes were seen in herds, and prairie 
idogs barked at us in every direction. 

Sunday, VMh. — As we proceed, the country assumes 
I a still more dreary aspect, bare of verdure, and broken in 
ridges of sand. Our horses, enfeebled by their long 
itravel, have very little to subsist on. The men, too, for 
the past three days, have ceased to receive rations of 
sugar and coffee. When we could not get these articles, 
we did as they do in France ; that is, without them. We 
had to' fr}^ our meat, and a few of us entered upon the 
funny work of making soup out of pork, buffalo flesh, and 
fish, boiled up together. It was a rare mess, but we pro- 
nounced it first-rate. 

\4:th. — After passing over the last 15 miles to-day, 
we found ourselves at a place called the crossing of the 
Arkansas. We were then 362 miles from Fort Leaven- 
worth. Our course has been aloncj the marcjin of the 
river for 75 miles. At this place are steep bliiits difficult 
to descend. There are multitudes of fish in the river, 
many of them were killed by the horses' feet in crossing. 
We caught several varieties by spearing. A number of 
antelopes were killed here. 



16 

Ibth. — This morning I felt very dull from loss of rest. 
We had to give considerable attention to the cattle, 
horses, &c., to prevent them from straying. I and seven 
others were detailed to stand sentinel. I was appointed 
to the second watch, and to be in readiness at the hour, 
I spread my blanket down in the prairie to take a nap. 
In two hours I was awakened, and instructed to arouse 
the Captain of the Watch at the expiration of three hours 
more ; having no means to measure the time but by my 
own sad thoughts, and the weary hours being rather 
tardy, I too soon obeyed the orders, and kept the last 
watch on duty five hours, to the amusement of all. After 
breakfast I took a stroll over the sandhills, and found about 
a dozen of our boys, inspecting the contents of a large 
basket, something like a hamper in which the merchants 
pack earthenware. It contained the skeleton of an 
Indian chief in a sitting posture, wrapped in buffalo robes, 
with his arrows, belts, beads, cooking utensils, &c. It 
had fallen from the limb of a tree, on which it had been 
suspended. Several of the men picked up the beads, 
and one named Waters carried the lower jaw and skull 
to camp, the latter he said he intended to " make a soup 
gourd of." 

IQth. — I took my seat quietly in the tent this morn- 
ing, and thought I would rest, as we were to stay a day 
or two at this place. 'I was presently surrounded by 
soldiers be2:s;insc me to write a few lines for them " to 
father, mother, wives, friends and homes." I WTote seven 
letters without removing from a kneeling posture, and was 
kept busy almost the whole day. 

nth. — Our Captain told us to get ready to start at 
10 o'clock to-day, and as we were to cross a sandy 
desert 60 miles wide, much water and provisions were 
to be packed. A number of us were kept busy cleaning 
the salt from pork barrels in order to fill them with water. 
Scarcely had we finished this hard job, when the news 
spread like electricity, " that the mail from Fort Leaven- 
worth had come in." I cannot pretend to describe the 
scene that ensued. I met our Captain, who said " the 
Sergeant had a letter for me;" with the most peculiar 



17 

eelings I seized it and saw the hand-writing of my loved 
ister in Maryland ; my home now so many weary leagues 
away. The delight I experienced was not unmmgled, 
iiowever, with the thought that perhaps at this very spot, 
ihe entrance to a wild desert, I had bid adieu finally to all 
[ held dear. We travelled 22 miles, and as it was late at 
it night when we halted, we spread our blankets on the 
sand, and slept soundly till morning. 

I8th.--l rose by day-light, and took a slice of bread 
and meat. We started early and came 23 miles, where 
me found some water standing in pools. We tried to 
Brect the tents, but the wind was too high ; had to cook 
L-hat night with buffalo chips; strange fuel, even for soldiers 
to use. ^ 

19^^.— After marching 10 miles to-day, we came to tne 
I Cimarone Springs— a sweet stream. Here we found grass 
enough for our poor horses. It is truly an oasis m the 
dcscvt* 

Sunday, 20th.— We crossed an arm of the Cimarone, 
^but the waters were dried up ; dug for water, but found 
none. Went on 5 miles farther, dug again, and procured 
enough for ourselves and horses. In our route of 25 
miles we saw the ground encrusted with salt. A singular 
animal attracted our notice. It was a horned frog, a great 
curiosity. Every thing was involved in a thick cloud of 

r!dust. , , 1 /-, 

21sL—0ne of the members of the Randolph Company, 
a" gentleman by the name of Jones, died last night of con- 
sumption. He took the trip for his health, but to-day his 
remains were interred, not far from the camp, with the 

1 honors of war. 

22n£^.— We still travelled on the Cimarone, though 
only at certain places could we procure water. A deep 
sand retarded the progress of the army. On arriving 

, where we had to encamp, we found 42 wagons, laden 
with goods. They were the property of a Mr. Gentry, a 
trader who has amassed great wealth, in merchandising 
between Independence, Santa Fe and Chihuahua. He 
speaks the Spanish language, and had nearly a dozen 
Spaniards in the caravan. 
2* 



18 

2Sd. — We had a considerable storm last night, and 
the hard rain made it rather disagreeable, especially so to 
me, as I had to do the duty of sentinel in the first watch, 
with a wolf howling most dismally within 60 yards of 
me. I would have fired at him, but I had to obey orders 
and not arouse the camp by a false alarm. We saw to- 
day the bones of 91 mules, which perished in a snow- 
storm last winter. The bones were piled by the road side. 

24:th. — Ov'crtook another caravan ; still passing up the 
Cimarone, whose bed is through the sandy plain ; at 
length we came to a hill from Avhence we descried the 
Rocky Mountains, rising abruptly in the distance. In 
our route we crossed a small spur. Mr. White, our first 
Lieutenant, with several others, ascended one, which 
presented the appearance of frowning rocky precipices. 
From its highest peaks, he brought down seashell, and 
petrifactions of various kinds. We had great difliculty in 
procuring buffalo chips. It was very amusing to see the 
boys in search of this indispensable article, our only 
resource to cook with. 

26th. — We reached " Cool Spring " to-day, and found 
refreshing and delightful water, bursting from a solitary 
rock of enormous dimensions, the sides of which are 
covered with the names of various travellers. Our pleas- 
ant officer, Mr. White, called me up, saying " he wished 
to see my name on a spot he pointed out ;" so taking a 
hearty draught from his canteen, which was just filled, I 
went up, and had scarcely carved my name, to remain 
there a monument of my folly, I suppose, when I discover- 
ed my horse making off with my accoutrements, canteen, 
&c. Hurried down and started after the beast. After 
running a great distance in the deep sand, I succeeded 
in capturing the runaway. Nineteen miles further on, 
we encamped in a deep ravine, among cliffs and rocks, 
here a few cedar trees were found. They afforded a 
seasonable supply of Avood to cook with. The Rocky 
Mountains were in sight all day. 

26 fh. — After a slight breakfast of bread and meat, we 
left this inhospitable place in disgust. It did not afford 
grass for our horses to graze on. We proceeded 12 miles 



19 

through a dreary waste, and had to encamp at night in a 
place where there was no water. 

21th, — I was awakened by the Sergeant of the Guard 
at 2 o'clock this morning, it being my turn to stand senti- 
nel of the morning watch. After breakfast we went on 
16 miles to Cotton AVood Creek. There we fixed up our 
tents, but no forage being found for our half-starved animals, 
we soon took them down again, and proceeded 5 miles 
on, to Rabbit Creek. At this place there was plenty of 
grass, and some tolerable scenery, but we were in no con- 
dition to enjoy it ; being late in the night, we spread our 
blankets on the prairie, and composed our wearied limbs 
to rest. 

28^A. — Our journey was still continued through a dry 
and sterile land, where there is neither wood, water, nor 
grass ; late in the evening we came to a pool of water. 

^ It was cool and good, and we drank of it freely. Our 

' wagons did not come up till very late, and being tired, we 
wrapped ourselves in our blankets and laid down to sleep 

' without supper. We went supperless, not to bed — but to 

: the sod. 

October 1st. — The last two days of September we re- 
mained at a place called Whetstone Creek, to rest. This 
AVhetstone Creek is another oasis. It was the source of 

'. great joy to ourselves and our mules and horses. Our 
pastime was like the boy's holiday, whose mother allowed 

' him to stay at home from school to saw wood and bring 
water. Our resting spell was a spell of hard work, and 

' most industriously did we labor in cleansing our arms 

I for inspection by the Colonel. And we had to do a deal 

' of marching and countermarching. Indeed the parade 
lasted so long, and with so many manoeuvres were we ex- 

' ercised, that the patience of officers and men was worn 
to its extremity. It was nearly thread-bare. And then 
came the orders for every man to see to his own provisions 
and water, as another desert was to be traversed. So we 
go ; changing from bad to worse. To-day, after a march 
ten miles, we reached the " Point af Rocks ;" a significant 

' name. Late at night we encamped in a valley between 
high mountains, where there was some grass, but no water. 



20 

2nd. — We still moved on over barren rocks and sand 
hills. We labored hard all day to leave them behind us. 
The hope cheered us of soon finding water ; we realised 
it at the far-famed Red River. Our whole force encamp- 
ed on its banks about night-fall. The waters of this dis- 
tinguished river are brackish, but refreshing. Incrustations 
of salt are formed upon the rocks lying above its surface. 
This river was named Kio Colorado by the early Santa Fe 
traders, who, without having followed it down to any con- 
siderable distance, believed it to be the head waters of the 
great river of this name, which flows into the Mississippi 
below Natchez. It has, however, since been followed 
down to its junction with the Arkansas, and found to be 
the Canadian fork of that river. We were now within 
140 miles of Santa Fe, having marched more than 600 
miles over a country destitute of timber, with but little 
water, and occupied only by roving bands of Indians, who 
subsist wholly upon buffalo meat. We saw immense 
herds of that animal on the Arkansas and its tributaries. 
The whole country presents, thus far, the most gloomy 
and fearful appearances to the weary traveller. But rough 
and uninviting as it is, all who visit New Mexico via Santa 
Fe, are compelled to pass it. 

Sd. — We have journeyed well to-day, having reached 
St. Clair Springs. It is a beautiful spot, well watered, 
and glowing in delightful verdure. It is surrounded by 
mountains, the surface of which are covered with craggy 
rocks. We searched for miles cround our camp for wood, 
with little success. The different companies killed a 
number of antelopes here. 

Sunday, Ath. — We are still encamped, and shall re- 
main in our position till the morning of the 5th. I took 
a walk, to " wagon mound," so called from the shape of 
its top, being like a covered wagon when seen in the dis- 
tance. This mountain top is surrounded by a cliff of 
cragg} rocks at least 100 feet in height. A most beautiful 
view is presented to the beholder. To the south you see 
hills covered with cedar and pine, situated in the immense 
prairie ; to the north and north-west, are seen mountains 
with rocks piled upon rocks, with here and there groves 



21 

of evergreens ; far away to the east, is the desert, over 
which we had just passed. The sides of this mountain 
f are covered with a hard kind of sand, and pumice stone, 
! having the appearance of cinder. Whilst I am writing, 
being situated as far up as it is prudent to go, an adventu- 
rous fellow, by the name of George Walton, has gained the 
wagon top ; two others have also ascended ; an achive- 
ment that few can perform. North of us there is a salt 
lake, which we intend to visit this evening. 

Sunday Afternoon. — Lieut. Smith and myself took a 
stroll to the lake. We found a thick crust of salt around 
its edge, which is several miles in circumference. We 
returned to camp by a mountain path, very difficult to 
travel. 

bth. — Eighteen miles were passed over to-day, through 
a mountainous country. W^e had just erected our tents 
and prepared for rest, when an evidence that we were ap- 
proaching some civilived country, arrived in the shape of 
a Frenchman, who met us here with a travelling grocery. 
This concern came from Moras — a barrel of whiskey was 
strapped on the back of a poor mule, which stuff some of 
our soldiers were foolish enough to drink : it sells at $1 
per pint. Such dear drinking ought to make drunkards 

scarce. i -i 

Qth. — Saw a mud cottage on the road side to-day. 
The sight was most pleasant to our eyes, accustomed as 
they Avere for forty-four days to a wild waste. As we 
rode up, every one must have a look into the house. It 
was inhabited by a native of North Carolina, whose wife 
is a Spanish woman. After being somewhat gratified with 
the sight of a house, though built of mud with its flat 
roof, we went on 18 miles, and encamped at a town 
called Rio Gallenas Ba^oes. On visiting this place we 
were struck with the singular appearance of the town 
and its inhabitants. The town consists of mud huts con- 
taining apartments built on the ground. The men were 
engaged in pounding cornstalks from which sugar is 
made; the women with faces tattooed and painted red, 
were making tortillas. We ate some, and found them 
excellent. 



22 

1th. — The wagons which contained our provisions 
coming in sight, we prepared the wood, which we obtain- 
ed with difficulty, for boiling the coflfee, &c., when Col. 
Mitchell rode up and told us the wind Avas too high to en- 
camp. And hungry as we were, we went ahead 17 miles 
through a forest of pine to Ledo Barnell, where we en- 
camped for the night. A grisly bear was killed to-day by 
some members of the Randolph Company. 

8^^. — We passed the large village of San Miguel to-day. 
Col. Mitchell and his interpreter went forward in search 
of a good place to encamp. The weather was dry and 
pleasant, with a suitable temperature for travelling. The 
most disagreeable annoyance is the sand, which is very 
unpleasant when the wind is high. 

9th. — Colonel Mitchell had chosen a spot for our en- 
campment, about 12 miles from our last resting place, 
near the foot of a mountain. There was no water to be 
found. Impelled by necessity, w^e followed an Indian 
trail over the mountain 5 miles, and after riding through 
the thick pines for several hours, we found the coveted 
treasure. As may be supposed, we drank most heartily, 
after which we filled our canteens, and returned to camp 
about 12 o'clock at night. We learned that Santa Fe 
was about 25 miles off. 

10th. — We arrived at the mountain pass at 10 o'clock, 
and reached Santa Fe about 3 o'clock in the afternoon. 
The glorious stars and stripes floating over the city was 
the first object that greeted our sight. We formed and 
marched into the town in order. We were received with 
martial music, and several rounds of blank cartridges were 
fired as a welcome to us. W^e paraded in the square 
fronting the Governor's house. After parade I took a 
walk through the town. The wagons did not arrive with 
our tents in time for us to encamp, and with our blankets 
around us, we laid down to rest. The blue sky was our 
canopy. 

Sunday, 11th. — It was so cold and disagreeable last 
night, that I found it impossible to sleep. I shivered 
through the night on the hard soil, and rose this morning 
with a severe headache. I walked about to keep myself 



23 

warm. After eating three small crackers for breakfast, 
I went to church in company with several others, to 
hear a Catholic priest. The music was prettily perform- 
ed on various instruments. An old man in the mean- 
time turning round before an image, and after he had 
bowed to the people several times, the music ceased. All 
was over, and we returned to camp. I felt sick and sad, 
for the worship did not refresh my spirits. This even- 
ing I was pall-bearer to a member of the Benton Com- 
pany, who died in the hospital soon after his arrival. 
We carried him out about a mile from the city to his 
final resting place. Four others were buried to-day, who 
died from fatigue and exhaustion. They belonged to the 
different companies. The muffled roll of the drum, and 
the firing of the farcAvell to the dead, did not have a ten- 
dency to cheer me. 

12th. — This morning the roll was called, and various 
duties assigned the soldiers. Some had to work on the 
Fort, and others to cut and haul wood. In the latter em- 
ployment I had to become teacher to some green hands. 
I found the task very troublesome, but performed it to the 
best of my ability. In the evening I wrote letters to my 
friends in Maryland. 

16th. — The two past days have been employed in pre- 
parations for our departure from Santa Fe. We have 
encountered much trouble and perplexity in getting teams, 
&c., have to travel 80 miles up the mountains, where we 
shall take up our winter quarters. We went out 6 miles 
and encamped. Having a severe headache, I tried my 
best to get some rest at night, but I had scarcely fallen 
asleep, when I was awakened by the officer to stand guard. 
I arose mechanically, feeling pretty much as I should sup- 
pose a fellow might feel who was on his way to execution. 
Taking up my gun I went to a large fire, where I sat qui- 
etly for two hours, watching my feelings more than I did 
the camp, for I was very unwell. 

16th. — The breaking down of some wagons detained us 
here till late. After starting, we met a number of Span- 
iards, mounted on mules. We passed some little patches 
of corn, badly cultivated, which they dignify with the 



24 

name of farms. A messmate wishing some red pepper, 
I called with him at a house, but it was all " no com' 
prenda^^ — " donH understand you^'' so we got no red pep- 
per. We went on to the next habitation through a brok- 
en country ; here we found our third Lieutenant with the 
interpreter arranging for our camp. As we had to wait 
for the other companies to come up, I rested on some 
corn shucks, and very pleasantly did the bed feel. It was 
a bed of down in comparison with that to which I had 
been accustomed. I had slept on the ground for more 
than three months. Nothing grows spontaneously in this 
country, but the Spanish broom. 

Ylth. — Colds, and other complaints, are becoming 
common in our ranks. After the fatigue of marching on 
foot heavily armed, we were illy calculated to do the 
duties of the camp. Our horses being too much enfeeb- 
led for further use, after our arrival at Santa Fe, were 
sent up the mountain to recruit. Thus our hardships 
increase with our progress. The ground being very brok- 
en where we encamped to-night, which is in a wheat 
field, I gathered all the stubble I could, to make our beds 
soft and even — bought some wood to cook with from the 
nativps. 

18^A. — I started alone, and tried to overtake two mess- 
mates, who had gone on before me. I had not proceeded 
more than 6 miles when I found my two young gentle- 
men playing cards on the road side. I passed them, and 
came to a village where I saw a considerable number of 
Spaniards. An old woman invited me in her house and 
set before me some tortillas and cornstalk-molasses, which 
were quite a treat. I remained there several hours, but 
thinking I had missed my way, I was about to take leave, 
with many thanks for their hospitality, when, to my great 
surprise and embarrassment, the old lady and her daughter 
most aifectionately embraced me. I suppose it was the 
custom among these simple hearted mountaineers, but of 
which I was quite ignorant. I was thankful for the meal 
my hostesses had provided for me, but the hugging was a 
luxury I did not anticipate, nor was I the least ambitious 
of having it repeated. I found my company without 



25 

much difficulty. We went on and crossed the Rio Grande. 
In the first stream I got my feet wet ; the second was 
too deep for wading, and I was kindly invited by our Ser- 
geant to mount behind him. We encamped there, having 
travelled 12 miles that day. 

19th. — We were surrounded by the natives, who ap- 

E eared friendly. When we came to the place where our 
orses were feeding, we learned from the soldiers in 
charge, that some of them had died, and that several had 
been stolen or had strayed away ; mine, of course, was 
among the missing. While the others were preparing to 
mount, I shouldered my musket and walked on, in sand 
half a foot deep. The walk was exceedingly tiresome. I 
saw large quantities of wild geese on the Rio Grande. 
After marching 8 miles we encamped. 

20tk. — All on horseback this morning in fine style, 
except myself and a few others equally unfortunate. 
We made the best use of our scrapers through the sand. 
Afler walking a while, we came to a house on the road 
side, the inhabitants of which, men, women, and chil- 
dren, came rushing out. We were at a loss to know what 
it meant, till we saw them surround a colored man, (our 
Surgeon's cook,) v/ho proved a novel sight to them. 
The poor fellow was quite mortified at being made a 
show of on account of his color. We went on 8 miles 
and encamped among the Utah Indians. They are at 
war with the Navihoes, who have hunted them nearly 
down. After supper I asked permission of our Captain 
to accompany Mr. White, and several others to their en- 
campment. • Here, around a large fire sat an Indian chief 
with liis squaws. Afler being introduced by our inter- 
preter, a council was called. After some jabbering, a 
regular war-dance commenced. Their best warriors, 
equipped in full costume, and painted most hideously, in 
twenty different ways, danced furiously around a large 
fire, to the music of kettles and drums. It was a horrid 
din, in which mingled the war-whoop. We gazed with 
astonishment till its conclusion, when an old chief made 
a long speech. We then returned to our camp to medi- 
tate upon what we had seen and heard, and to wonder at 
3 



the strangeness of character and habit exhibited by those 
poor creatures. 

21st. — We were surrounded by the Indians before our 
breakfast was over. They came on to Abique, and en- 
camped near us. There are several villages in this place. 
We arrived about two o'clock, and took up our quarters. 
Tlie companies under Major Gilpin, which were stationed 
there, and which we had been sent to relieve, were great- 
ly worn and reduced with their long stay among the 
mountains. There was another dance at night in the 
Indian camp — ^being much tormented with sandburs, I 
did not go out. We had to eat our provisions half 
cooked, from the scarcity of wood. I and a messmate 
were forced to " hook " too small poles from a fodder crib, 
and when we returned to camp we found the companies 
on parade, and the Captain telling them the order of the 
next day. 

22d. — The whole command, viz. two companies from 
Col. Price's Regiment, consisting of about one hundred 
and eighty man, were obliged to remove to-day four miles 
further up the river, in order to obtain grass and fuel, 
this place being entirely destitute of either. At night, 
I went with our interpreter and third Lieutenant to sev- 
eral houses, to buy mutton. While on our errand we 
met with some ladies ; one of them had a dough face ; all 
the rest were smeared with red, and to my fancy, not at all 
beautiful. We returned to camp without our mutton, and 
not a little disappointed. 

23d. — The country here is bare and sterile to a great 
degree, but there is an improvement with regard to fuel, 
which is so necessary at this season, in this mountainous 
country. I believe we are stationary at last. I was kept 
busy all day writing letters for the soldiers, many of whom 
very gladly do my washing and mending in return for this 
slight service. I had rather at any time write than cook 
and wash and mend clothes. 

24:th. — I felt sick to-day. I took cold from a severe 
drenching, while on duty as a sentinel last night. A 
heavy cold rain was falling the whole time. I strove to 
assist in making our camp as comfortable as possible, and 



27 

in the evening dispatched two letters to Santa Fe, for my 
beloved friends in Maryland. 

Sunday, 2bth. — At day-break this morning, a number 
of Mexicans came into camp ; jabbering to them.selves in 
a great rage about something. At first we could not 
ascertain the cause of their trouble, there being no inter- 
preter present, and none of the soldiers knowing enough 
of the Spanish language to comprehend their meaning ; 
soon, however, it was discovered that about sundown 
last evening, the Captain of our company had caused the 
embankment of their mill and irrigating pond, to be brok- 
en, a short distance above camp, on the bank of the river, 
so as to prevent it from overflowing the bed of his tent. 
The water of course rushed out with great force, tearing 
the embankment down, and washing the earth away for 
a considerable distance, stopping their mill, and leaving 
many families destitute of water ; all of which serious in- 
juries, the Captain seemed disinclined to repair. This 
behavior of the Captain met with but little favor from his 
men ; to their honor be it spoken. 

2Uh. — This morning our Lieutenant went round the 
camp to get volunteers to repair the broken ditch. All 
seemed unwilling to do any thing ; some had their 
horses to find, others to cut and haul wood. The men 
had no idea of laboring gratuitously for the repair of a 
deed wantonly done by their Captain. I with several 
others walked four miles up the river, with our axes, for 
the purpose of getting wood. We crossed the river sev- 
eral times, in the wildest and most out-of-the-way places, 
between high cragged mountains, which it was impossi- 
ble to ascend. VVe returned to camp with our wagon 
loaded, though we encountered great difiiculty in accom- 
plishing it. We found there was a disagreeable misun- 
derstanding among the officers respecting the embankment. 
The Captain wished soldiers detailed for its repair, and the 
Lieutenants thinking it an imposition on the poor fellows 
to stand in the mud to work such cold weather, without 
compensation. ***** 

2Sth. — We are now living in the midst of the greatest 
abundance of life's luxuries. As an evidence of our high 



living, I will transcribe our bill of fare for the week. It is 
as follows : 

Monday. — Bread, beef, (tough as leather,) bean soup. 

Tuesday. — Tough beef, bread, and bean soup. 

Wednesday. — Bean soup, bread, and tough beef, and so 
on to the end of the week. 

The greatest harmony prevails in camp, especially 
among the officers ; the Captain and first Lieutenant are 
the greatest friends imaginable ; they do every thing in 
their power for the good of the company. They are the 
bravest and most patriotic officers in the regiment. In 
this lovely and fertile valley, encamped on the banks of 
the Rio Charma, we are enjoying all the blessings of life. 
We are charmed by the surpassing beauty of the Spanish 
ladies, and living in so much hannony with, each other, that 
we almost imagine the "garden of Eden to have been 
again raised for our enjoyment ; and then. Oh ! heavens, 
what a luxury, amid these joys, to feel the delightful sen- 
sations produced by the gentle and graceful movements of 
a Spanish louse, as he journeys over one's body ! The 
very thought of it makes me poetic, and I cannot resist the 
temptation of dedicating a line to the memory of moments 
so exquisite. How appropriate are the words of Moore 
to such occasions of bliss ? 

Oft in the stilly night, 
Ere slumber's chains have bound me, 

I feel the cursed creatures bite, 
As scores are crawling round me, 

not like one who treads alone, 

The banquet halls deserted ; — 
In crowds they crawl despite the groan 

Of him whose blood they started. 

When I took up my Journal to add a few items, I 
found the above had been written by some wag, in my 
absence. He was disposed to ridicule my description of 
the felicity of which I boasted. Our boys are rather 
mischievous, and I must confess that I felt rather wag- 
gish myself, when I made the boast of our possessing Eden- 
iike pleasures. The continuation of my narrative pleased 



29 

me so well that I consented to let it remain as it was 
written. Our mischievous feeling and manner of expres- 
sion is the most innocent way in which we can relieve 
ourselves, for we privates are suffering many privations, 
while some of our officers refuse to speak to each other. 
I am glad, however, that our troubles are so merrily 
turned into ridicule ; the best way sometimes to treat 
them. We are not destitute of sport, however ; many 
amusing scenes occur among us, debating societies are 
formed among the soldiers, in which the most absurd 
questions are dilated upon with a vehemence and mock 
seriousness truly laughable. A breakfast of coffee, 
without sugar, some very poor beef soup, and onions 
sliced up with parched corn, made a better meal for us 
to-day, than we have had for some days past. Yesterday 
I traded off two needles to the Spanish girls for six ears of 
corn and some onions. It was a trade decidedly profitable 
for both parties. In company with our first Lieuten- 
ant, his brother, William White, Dr. Dunlap, and a 
number of others, I went up on a high peak of tne Rocky 
Mountains. We had been there but a few minutes 
when it commenced snowing. We kindled a large fire, 
and amused ourselves by listening to the reverberations 
of sound produced by our Lieutenant's revolver, who 
fired six rounds. Becoming thirsty, we searched and 
found water, in the crevice of the rock, close to the edge 
of the precipice. It was too far below the surface for us 
to drink by stooping over, and William Wliite proposed 
to throw in gravel, in order to raise the water, reminding 
me of one of jEsop's fables. We followed his advice, 
and the water was soon forced to rise high enough for 
our purpose. The snow increasing, we came down and 
made another fire in a large hollow of the rock, where 
all but myself sat down to cards. It was an amusement 
that I did not relish, and I sought my own gratification 
in loosing the rocks and rolling them down the side of the 
mountain, which is at least a thousand feet above the level 
of our camp. 

29^A. — To-day, Charles Perkins and myself took our 
guns and proceeded down the river several miles in search 



30 

of game. We fired at several flocks of wild geese and 
ducks, but it only scared them further off. We passed 
several Spanish houses on our return. When we reached 
the camp, we found the soldiers at different employments, 
some playing cards, and others making articles to sell to 
the natives. A Mr. Hatfield was engaged in the manu- 
facture of a grindstone to trade to the Spaniards for corn 
and beans. These, with onions, are the only vegetables 
they grow. 

30th. — The mountains are covered with snow, and, 
after raining hard all night, this morning it is clear and 
cold. We made the best preparations we could to send 
the wagons back to Santa Fe for provisions, as late last 
night, our second Lieutenant returned, after an absence 
of five days, and brought news that we are to take up our 
winter quarters in this dreadful region. There seems to 
be very little likelihood of our going south at all. The 
ofiicers went in search of other quarters to-day. 

3\st. — We had a heavy fall of rain last night, which 
improved into a snow storm before morning. I slept 
very uncomfortably, as a high wind from the north had 
full sweep in the door of our tent. We were inspected 
at 11 o'clock, and carried through all the evolutions of 
the drill. After the parade we could scarcely keep warm, 
though wrapped in our blankets, and crowded around the 
fire. Yesterday one of our beef catde died from starva- 
tion. The Mexicans came down and took it off to their 
habitations. We might have made a speculation by sell- 
ing it, but did not think of it. 

Sunday, November 1st. — Several of my mess are going 
up the mountains to look for their horses. I offered a 
friend $5, (should I ever again possess that sum,) to 
search for mine. I read aloud in my Testament to some 
of the boys, while others sat apart or pitched quoits. At 
night a Spaniard came in camp with a fiddle, and played a 
number of tunes, which so exhilarated my poor half frozen 
companions, that they united in a dance, which they kept 
up till a late hour. 

2nd. — Some Taos flour, coarsely ground in the little 
native mills on the Rio Grande, badly baked in the ashes, 



31 

and some coffee without sugar, now comprise our only 
sustinance. Between meals, however, we parch some 
corn, which we now and then procure of the natives in 
exchange for huttons, needles, or any little matter we can 
spare. At 9 o'clock, we struck our tents, and marched 
down the river two miles, to a deserted Spanish house, 
nearly in ruins. The inhabitants were murdered by the 
Navihoe Indians. This is the place where we are to 
take up our winter quarters, I can scarcely describe 
this wretched den.. The soldiers have looked in and they 
have become very dissatisfied. They were told by the 
Captain to erect their tents inside the wall, all the houses 
in this region having that protection. We could not sleep 
in the house on account of the offensive odor. The tent 
was much more comfortable. 

Sd. — As soon as our breakfast of beef soup and coffee 
was over, some of the men were appointed to scrape and 
clean the house. I, with several others, was sent to the 
mountains to cut and haul wood. After walking two 
miles, we procured a load of green pine, which does not 
grow here more than half the usual size. On the return, 
I thought I would take a near cut to our camp alone. I 
turned into a foot-path, which led me to the top of a high 
mountain. Here I could see our quarters, though a long 
distance off. I took a direct course, and soon arrived at 
camp, where I found our boys writing down a vocabulary 
of Spanish words. They have become very erudite of late. 

Ath. — All this day we did nothing but write down 
words from the language spoken by the people, who, from 
their complexion, appear to be a mixture of the Spanish 
and Indian races. We made a pretty good dictionary 
among us. 

bth. — This day is very unpleasant. It is raining hard. 
At 4 o'clock, our first Lieutenant, Mr. White, returned 
from Santa Fe. He brought bad news. He could get no 
provisions, except one fourth rations of flour, and one and 
a half barrels of mess pork. But notwithstanding all this, 
our bovs are still very lively. 

6^/i.— We had great labor to-day in procuring fuel 
sufficient for our present purpose, and the prospect of a 



32 

long and severe winter before us, makes our situation 
rather unenviable. 

7M. — On short allowance yesterday and to-day, a little 
bread, (i. e. two pints for six men,) some fried bee , and 
coffee without sugar. 

Sunday, Sth.. — Although the morning was cloudy and 
cold, I walked with twenty others down to Abique to 
church. On arriving we went into the priest's room. 
He very politely invited us to be seated, and then com- 
menced asking all kinds of questions about the United 
States. He seemed to take great interest in teaching us 
the Spanish language. He made us repeat after him, 
many long and hard words. We sat two hours with him, 
and then went to church, where a large congregation 
was assembled. In a few minutes our priest made his 
appearance, dressed in gold lace, and ascended the pul- 
pit, while all present fell on their knees. The music of 
various instruments now commenced, the priest the mean- 
while drinking sundry glasses of wine. The people remain- 
ed on their knees till the music ceased, when all retired. 

It was noised among the soldiers that a fandango would 
take place in the evening. Some of us went in to in- 
quire of the priest, who informed us that the fandango 
was to be at a village a few miles further off. In a little 
while a Mexican guide was hired to escort us. After 
walking a mile we came to a river, when this Spanish 
fellow, very quietly sat down to pull off his shoes, and 
told all who were in favor of wading the stream to follow 
his example. Eight of the boys immediately commenced 
stripping to cross, declaring that nothing should disap- 
point them from attending a fandango. As I had a bad 
cold, with some others, who felt no inclination to wet their 
feet, I returned to our quarters. 

9th. — All this day in the mountains, cutting wood. 

10th, — I went with several others to search for lost 
horses. We had not gone far, when, to my great joy, I 
found mine, which had not been seen since we left Santa 
Fe. W^e heard volleys of musketry in the direction of 
our camp, and were at a loss to understand the meaning, 
till on our return, we learned that a dog had been buried 



83 

with the honors of war. This poor dog had been a great 
favorite with our Captain and all the company ; he was 
most foolishly shot by a soldier on guard last night. The 
man was made to dig his grave, and will be detailed on 
extra duty as a punishment, the Captain being much 
exasperated. This evening I, with four others took 
rations for five days, in order to drive the horses down 
the river to graze. Late at night, we reached a Spanish 
village, where we stopped. A mile from that place, a 
fandango was to come oif, and the ladies of the place 
were preparing for the dance. They were nicely equip 
ped in their best finery, and the soldiers were engaged to 
accompany them. Not being very desirous of attending 
the fandango, I preferred to remain and try to ge* 
some rest, of which I was very much in need. The 
party was soon prepared, and off they started, leaving 
me behind to cook supper and arrange matters for their 
comfort when they should return. I browned the coffee, 
fried the beef, made the bread, and having all things in 
readiness, I drank a cup of coffee and laid down to rest 
on a mattress placed on the floor. As far as the thing I 
laid on was ., concerned, I was comfortable enough ; the 
mattress was a luxury ; but I could not sleep ; the reasons 
were various. I was lying in a house, when I was 
accustomed to dwell in tents ; — my quarters were divided 
between myself several donkies and mules and two 
small children — the odor of the donkies was not the 
most agreeable, nor their noise very harmonious ; the 
children knew their mother was out, and did their best at 
cr3dng. The woman had gone to the fandango, where I 
hope she enjoyed better music than that which she left 
for the lulling of my sensibilities into sweet slumbers. 

11^^. — Our soldiers did not return from the fandango 
till 3 o'clock this morning, and I was appointed to get 
breakfast while they slept. I had considerable trouble 
in accomplishing this service, as the girls crowded 
aroimd the fire, and I had frequent)}^ to pass the frying 
pan over the naked feet of a pretty girl who was sitting 
near me. In company with a young Spaniard, who was 
exceedingly agreeable and polite, I went out after break- 



34 

fast to kill wild geese. We walked a long distance, and 
returned unsuccessful. 

12fL — I find the family residing here, very agreeable. 
I was invited, and almost forced to accompany them to 
a fandango last night (for they do little else but dance.) 
All on horseback, the married men mounted behind their 
wives, we started. A little baby in its mother's arms 
becoming troublesome, one of our men, who said he 
was a married man, most gallantly ro'de up, and offered 
to carry the little creature. The mother thankfully re- 
signed it to his charge. There was more pleasure in the 
idea of enjoyment at the fandango than in taking care of 
a cross child. When we arrived at Abique, an old man 
invited us to partake of his hospitality ; — an invitation 
we gladly accepted. We went in accordingly, and after 
all were seated on the floor in the posture of a tailor, a 
large earthen vessel was placed before us containing pepper 
sauce and soup, and a few tortillas, (a thin paste made 
of corn rubbed between flat stones.) The sauce caused 
my mouth to burn to a blister. The people are very 
fond of condiments, and become so accustomed to them 
that what will burn a stranger's mouth has no effect upon 
theirs. After all was over, we went across the street to 
attend the fandango. From the crowd, I should judge 
it was high in favor w^ith all classes of the community. 
Some of the performers were dressed in the most 
fantastic style, and some scarcely dressed at all. The 
ladies and gentlemen whirled around with a rapidity 
quite painful to behold, and the music pealed in deaf- 
ening sounds. I took my seat near a pretty girl, and 
every time she leaned on my shoulder, which she did 
pretty often, her beau would shake his head in token of 
his displeasure, and showing his jealous disposition, I left 
the place about 10 o'clock, and returned to our quarters. 

VSth. — We visited our camp to-day at the Spanish 
ruins. The Captain and officers were glad to see us, 
especially as we had good news in relation to the horses. 
We had them in charge, and exhibited them to our com- 
rades as the trophies of our success. On our return, we 
killed two wild geese and four rabbits, which we found 



36 

a great help to our stock of provisions, which was then 
very low. 

14:th. — I was left alone with the Spaniards to-day, while 
our boys are attending to the horses. My Spanish friends 
are very courteous, but there is little to relieve the mono- 
tony of our intercourse, as from my ignorance of the lan- 
guage, I am unable to converse with them. 

Wth. — This morning we had one of our wild geese 
stewed for breakfast, which we had without coffee, and 
almost without bread. After breakfast I started to camp, 
to draw provisions of some kind. When at camp, i con- 
cluded to remain there. 

IQth. — I w^as told by the Sergeant to-day, that there 
was no flour to issue. He referred me to the Captain, 
who directed young Bales and myself to a mill some 
distance off, where we procured 60lbs. of unsifted Taos 
flour, very coarsely prepared. With this we returned, 
and in a few minutes nearly the whole was appropriated 
to the use of the half-starved soldiers. A very small por- 
tion of this brown flour fell to our share. This evening 
we are without food, or nearly so. Martin Glaze, an old 
veteran, who has seen service, and belongs to my mess, 
got a few ears of corn, and parched it in a pan, with 
a small piece of pork, to make it greasy. When it 
was done, we all sat round the fire and ate our supper of 
parched corn, greased with fat pork. The weather to- 
night is extremely cold. 

11th. — Awoke early this morning and found it snowing 
very hard. At 10 o'clock I went to our first Lieutenant's 
quarters. He was engaged in appraising some cattle which 
are pressed into our service, and for which the natives 
were to be paid. A bull has just been killed, and the offals 
are being greedily devoured by our poor fellows. At 11 
o'clock to-day our third Corporal died, having been sick 
with camp fever and inflammation of the brain, several 
weeks. At 3 o'clock his grave was dug, and the poor fel- 
low was wrapped in his blanket, and buried without a 
colfm. To-night there are several of our men sick with 
the measles, supposed by our Surgeon to have been brought 
from Santa Fe. * 



36 

18^^. — The snow four inches deep — clear and very cold 
— another grave dug to-day, for a member of the Livinp;- 
ston company, making five who have died since we have 
been out here. They are all buried near the mountain, 
where poor Johnson was laid. 

20th. — The past two days have been employed in pro- 
curing wood, which is hard labor ; but we do not complain 
as our fare is improved by the addition of bean soup and 
coffee. 

21 sf. — A court martial was held this morning to try our 
fourth Sergeant, w^ho has said something derogatory to the 
character of our Orderly. After the court adjourned, we 
were ordered to form a line. Our first Lieutenant then 
stood in front and read the proceedings of the court. 
The decision was, that our fourth Sergeant be reduced to 
the ranks, for slander. It was ordered, that if any man or 
men should thereafter bring false charges against the offi- 
cers, he or they should be sent with a file of soldiers to 
Santa Fe, and tried at head quarters, &c. The company 
was then dismissed. Several of my mess concluded to 
to run as candidates for the vacant place. They went 
among the crowd with tobacco and parched corn, election- 
eering. I was placed a guard at 9, and had to stand till 
11 o'clock. 

Sunday, 22nd.— A gloomy Sabbath morning ; I felt 
badly, but concluded to go to church at Abique. As 
soon as the ceremonies were ended, I went to the priest's 
room, in company with my old friend, Capt. Markle, and 
several officers. After sitting a while, a servant brought 
in a dish of refreshments, consisting of pies and wine. 
Placing the glass to my lips, I discovered it to be Taos 
whiskey, as strong as alcohol. A piece of the pie, I 
thought, might take away the unpleasant taste, so I crowd- 
ed my mouth full, and found, alas ! it was composed of 
onions ; a dreadful fix, indeed, for a hungry man, Taos 
whiskey and onion pie ! the very thought of the mess 
makes my mouth burn. When I returned to camp, I 
found nearly every individual busily engaged at cards 
Elias Barber, a messmate, was taken sick with the 
measles. The disease is now raging among the troops. 



37 

23d. — We had great trouble in procuring fuel to-day. 
We had to travel far up the mountain for it, and it is 
exceedingly difficult to cook with it out of doors in the 
deep snow. It fell to my lot to make the bread, and I 
had much ado to-night, to make the mass stick together. 
I felt more than usual fatigue after the parade. 

2Ath. — Elias Barber is very sick to-day. He speni a 
wretched night last night in a thin cotton tent. The 
wind is blowing on him constantly, while the measles 
are out very thick. I went to the Captain this morning 
and informed him of the situation of the young man. 
He told me if I could procure a place in the house, he 
might be brought in. I therefore went and after making 
preparations to move him, I was told that no such thing 
should be done. I then tried to get an extra tent to 
place over the one we are sleeping in, and even this was 
denied me. The poor fellow is lying out of doors, ex- 
posed to all the inclemency of this cold climate. And 
last night it was so cold that the water became frozen in 
our canteens. The Surgeon appears interested, but it is 
all to no purpose — nothing further is done for the com- 
fort of the sufferer. May the Lord deliver me from the 
tender mercies of such men ! 

25th. — I felt quite unwell all day to-day. I suffered 
much from a severe attack of diarrhoea. Our lodgings 
are very uncomfortable. I went down to the Rio Grande 
to get water, and found it neai:ly frozen over. A great 
mortality prevails among the troops who are dying from 
exposure and disease. 

2Qth. — I was very much engaged all day, in nursing 
poor Barber. He is worse to-day, the measles having 
disappeared from the surface. I sat by him the livelon 
night and listened to his delirious ravings, and I felt sa 
to think I had no means of relief At 4 o'clock this 
morning the Captain came, and finding him so ill, brought 
out a tent to cover the one he laid in. 

21th. — Last night, my messmate Phillips returned from 

Sante Fe, with a message from Col. Price to the different 

Captains, to send on ten men from each company, 

as an escort for Col. Mitchell, who was about to start for 

4 



38 

Chihuahua. From thence he is to proceed to open a 
communication with General Wool. To-day an express 
arrived from Col. Mitchell for the same purpose. We 
were hastily paraded to ascertain how many would 
volunteer to go, when I, with live others of my company, 
stepped out of the ranks, and had our names enrolled. 
We were satisfied that we could not render our situation 
worse, and hoped any change might be for the better. 
We hastened to the grazing ground, over the mountain, 
for our horses, which occupied us all day. Mine was 
gone of course. To prevent delay, I gave my note to a 
young man for a horse which belonged to a deceased 
soldier. 

2%th. — A full company having been made up, this 
morning we gathered at our quarters, and were ready at 
8 o'clock to take leave of our kind hearted comrades. 
They bid us "good-bye," with many expressions of 
regret, and injunctions to write often. We pursued our 
journey 35 miles, and put up late in the evening at the 
house of a rich Spaniard, who accommodated us with an 
empty room twenty feet square, but it had so small a fire- 
place that we could not use it for our culinary purposes, so 
we were forced to do most of our cooking in the open air. 
It fell to my lot as usual to make the bread, and I kneaded 
forty pounds of Taos flour in a mass, and baked thirty- 
six good sized cakes, while two others prepared our camp 
kettles of coflee, 8s.c. 

Sunday 29//i.— At 4 o'clock we ate our breakfast, 
and were on the road by daylight. We travelled all day 
without stopping, and arrived at Santa Fe at 6 o'clock 
in the evening. We went immediately to the American 
Hotel where supper was provided for us. Nineteen men 
sat down to the table, none of whom had enjoyed such a 
privilege for nearly four months. All were hungry, and 
it was amusing to see how we tried to eat our landlord 
out of house and home. After supper we retired to our 
quarters in a very small room. 

30//i. — Word was sent from Col. Mitchell this morn- 
ing for us to parade before the Governor's house for in- 
spection. Our horses were also examined, and all being 



39 

found in good order for the trip, we were dismissed and 
conducted to our quarters, in the court house, where we 
drew our rations, viz. thirty pounds of good American 
flour, Avith pork enough to last five days. 

December \sf. — Paraded soon again after breakfast, and 
were told by our Captain that previous to our depart 
ure, we must all march to the sutler's store, and acknow- 
ledge our indebtedness to him; so we rode up in right order, 
and dismounted. We had a peep at our accounts, and 
I found mine to be $30 75. I had purchased a few 
articles of clothing on my route, being forced to do so 
from necessity. I was, therefore, not surprised at the 
amount, especially when I read the prices of some of the 
articles, viz. a small cotton handkerchief, $1 ; suspenders, 
$1 ; flannel shirt, $3 ; tin coffee pot, $1 60, &c., &c. 
Here we bade farewell to our Captains, who had accom- 
panied us to Santa Fe to see us off". Captain Williams 
shook me cordially by the hand, saying he had no ex- 
pectation of seeing me again in this world. Captain 
Hudson now took charge, and rode with us two miles 
out of town ; here he informed us we had a dangerous 
road to travel, but would leave us to the care of Lieuten- 
ant Todd for two days, till we were joined by Colonel 
Mitchell and himself He returned to town, and we 
came on four miles and stopped at a house, whose master 
sold us wood and forage for our horses, it being severely 
cold. Sixty of us occupied two large rooms for the 
night. 

2d. — We marched 25 miles to a place called San 
Domingo, and took quarters in a deserted house. This is 
a considerable place, with a handsome church, which was 
being illuminated when we arrived. In a little time the 
bells began to ring, and there was a firing of musketry and 
considerable commotion at the door of the church. Several 
of our soldiers Avere induced to go up and inquire into the 
meaning of the uproar. We were told that a converted 
Indian chief had just died, and that all this was to prevent 
him from going down to purgatory. The roll of the drum, 
and firing, continued a long time, when the ceremonies 
commenced in the church, from the door of which we saw 



40 

many large wax candles burning, but not being permitted 
to enter, we very quietly retired. 

3d. — After travelling six miles we came to an Indian 
village, called San Felippe, and tvfo miles further down the 
Rio Grande, we encamped in the midst of a good pasture 
for our horses. After supper our Lieutenant told me I was 
honored with the appointment of Captain of the watch. In 
consequence of this distinction, I had to be up nearly all 
night. It was very cold. We were now comparatively 
happy, for we had plenty of good flour from the States, 
with coffee, sugar, &c. 

4:lh. — We learn that we shall be obliged to stay here till 
Colonel Mitchell comes up with the other company, so we 
seize the opportunity to have our horses shod. Two black- 
smiths are now at work ; I have just bought a set of shoes 
and nails from our sutler, for $3. 

6th. — The weather has moderated somewhat, but the face 
of the country presents nothing inviting at this season of 
the year. Everything has a desolate and w^intry appearance. 
There being no food for our horses, we chopped down some 
limbs of the cotton wood tree for them to eat. Then went to' 
a Mexican village to buy corn. Having no money, I took 
some tobacco and buttons to trade for the corn. While 
here, I sold my greasy blanket for a Navihoe one, with a 
meal for my horse in the bargain. The man with whom I 
traded was very kind ; he set before me some corn, mush 
and sausages, but being seasoned with onions, I declined 
eating. He then brought in some cornstalk molasses, 
which I mixed with water and drank, thanking him for his 
hospitality. I returned to camp, where I found that Col. 
Mitchell and the baggage wagons had arrived. I was 
oincer of the guard to-night, and up till 12 o'clock. 

Sunday, Qth. — Formed in line by our Colonel, in the 
midst of a heav^y shower of rain, and marched down the 
Rio Grande, a long distance. Our course is due south, 
keeping the river constantly on our right, and ranges of 
mountains on our left hand. We passed many villages, 
and at night encamped near one. 

7^A.~ Rising early this morning to prepare breakfast, 
I found the snow four inches deep, and still snowing 



41 

very fast. Marched in right order 15 miles, and after 
\ passing several towns situated on the banks of the river, 
, we stopped at night at the large town of Albikirk. 
, Here are garrisoned one hundred and fifty regulars, 
; near whose quarters we encamped in a large room 100 
J feet by 40. In this place we found a number of soldiers, 
' some engaged in tailoring, some playing cards, and others 
amusing themselves in various ways. 

Sth. — The country through which we passed to-day 
is thickly dotted over with towns and villages, w4iose 
names I cannot remember, but the road is dismal enough, 
being still among the mountains, where every object the 
eye rests upon is covered with snow. The cold is very 
intense. We pitched our tents to-night under the walls 
of a town. We had six small ears of corn for our 
horses, and no fodder. I went to the Quarter Master and 
w^as informed by him that the Mexicans had refused to 
sell us any thing. I cut some buttons from a uniform 
jacket, and with them tried to purchase food for my horse, 
but I was refused every where. I sat down and made out 
a requisition, and with several others went to their large 
stacks, ten feet high, which we ascended, and threw down 
a large turn for each. We succeeded in coming off 
with our booty, and in a few minutes, we were in bed. 
We were not disturbed in conscience in the least, being 
fully covered by the axiom, "necessity knows no law." 

9^^.^ — We were called up this morning to lead our 
horses into ranks, when two guns and a sabre were miss- 
ing. They had been taken from the tents by the 
Mexicans. After the line was formed. Col. Mitchell 
ordered the men who had lost their arms, to march out. 
He then told them they would be left behind to search 
the town, assisted by the alcade, and if they should not 
find their arms they would have to return to Santa Fe. 
W^e then left : marched ten miles and encamped near a 
village. Our interpreter w^as sent to procure forage for 
the horses, but he returned with the news that none could 
be had. Our Captain told the Sergeant to go up 
with a file of soldiers and take what was wanting. He 



42 

formed a line of twenty men, I among them, and marched 
off with our Orderly at the head, and second Sergeant, 
w^ith the bags to put the corn in. At the door of the 
house, we were ordered to halt. The lock w^as broken, 
and we entered, filled our sacks and packed them down 
to the camp. In this adventure I made the acquaintance 
of a young man by the name of Hepbourn. He was 
born and raised in Prince George's County, Md. After 
supper, we were all ordered up to draw fifteen rounds of 
cartrido;es. A strong guard was ordered out to-nicrht. 

10th. — Having orders to march very early, we rose by t)( 
light and proceeded down the river 18 miles, the country ii 
presenting very much the appearance already described. ::a 
We saw a few vineyards, surrounded by walls. I felt 
miserably disordered from the cold and loss of ^e 
rest. I was just about to sit down to supper, which 
I thought might revive me, when our Orderly came 
by, requesting the men to form in line immediately, as 
the Captain wished to read the Articles of War. We 
stood just one hour and listened to the dry detail. 
When the reading was concluded, we returned to our 
tents. After supper, sixteen men were detailed on guard. 
I stood two hours the first watch, and three hours before 
day-light. It was extremely cold. 

l\th. — The roll was called at day -break, and after 
parade we continued our march 12 miles, and encamped 
in a town among the mountains. Wood was very scarce, 
and the severity of the weather increasing. 

12th. — We eat our breakfast at day-light. It consisted 
of mess pork and bread, half baked by a miseable 
fire. We went 12 miles to a place where there is a fine 
supply of wood. Our poor fellows had the satisfaction of 
having a good fire all night, and it was very necessary, 
for the weather was tempestuous with cold gusts of wind 
and snow. 

Sunday ISth. — At one o'clock this morning I awoke 
and found myself s,o cold that I arose and went to the 
guard fire to thaw myself. I stood by the fire till day- 
light. The Captain in his round to visit the guard, 
stopped at the fire, and I had a pleasant chat with him. 



¥[ 



43 

ie is very clever and condescending. He remained an 
lOur or two, and then woke up the Orderly to have all 
n readiness for a start. We came over the mountain 
our miles, where our road intersected the river again, 
>assed a town, and further on encamped near the river. 
)ur interpreter bought a beef from the natives, also a 
ittlewoodto cook it. The wild geese are very numerous 
lere. 

lith. — The roll was called very early this morning — 
ind as my horse had a sore back, I asked the Captain's 
)ermission to walk behind the v/agons. I walked all 
his day and led my horse. When I came up to the en- 
campment I found that my mess had supper ready. It 
consisted of a kind of chicken pie, bread and coffee. I 
elished the supper very much, but by way of desert I 
eceived information that I had to stand sentinel. I walked 
ny post two hours and then went to bed ; being too 
3old to sleep, I got up at two o'clock, and went to the 
ruard fire. The guard said he was very sleepy and 
vould lie down if I would consent to serve while he 
slept. To this I readily agreed — and he laid down, 
vvhile I made a large fire, which soon attracted the atten- 
;ion of the other sentinels, and several of them collected 
iround it. We enjoyed each other's conversation till the 
morning dawned. 

16th. — I woke up the Sergeant, who said we had 
walked our post four hours over the time. I received the 
compliment, but did not tell him that we had sat by the 
fire all the time. In his Irish brogue, and with a pipe in 
his mouth, he proceeded to call the roll. We are to stay 
here till the 17th. 

IQth. — Having secured some beef, I made a large fire to 
get an early breakfast. Yesterday our Quarter Master 
pressed a lot of seven very good cattle from the Mexicans. 
Last night a strong guard of twenty men w^as stationed 
around our camp. The weather is still raw and cold. We 
are yet among the mountains. 

nth. — This m.orning we reached the second crossing 
of the Rio Grande. Four miles beyond the crossing, 
we overtook Col. Doniphan's command, and encamped 



44 

near them. Having to walk and lead my horse, I did not 
come up till all were fixed. I found our boys very 
angry at a circumstance which they related and made me 
write down, with a promise to publish it — which promise 
I now fulfil. While on the march to-day, the Captain 
ordered a halt, and told the soldiers that he had been re- 
quested by the Lieutenants to beg them all not to come 
near their fires or tents, as it incommoded them greatly. 
He stated on his own behalf, as well as on behalf of the 
other officers, that it was quite a nuisance to have the 
privates lurking about their tents and fires. He said that 
something might be " hooked" and that the Lieutenant had 
already lost some saleratus, &c. This was a poser. Our 
poor fellows could hardly endure it. Some of them 
were much exasperated. I tried to soothe them, and told 
them no other harm was meant than a slight intimation that 
we must keep away at meal times, as a knowledge of their 
better fare might make us dissatisfied, &c. All passed off 
better than I expected. We had to go a mile for water, and 
tlie thermometer at zero. 

I8th. — The situation of our tents was by no means 
pleasant. There was much complaint about stones and 
hillocks, lying hard, &c. Breakfast over, I started with 
the wagons, in company with some others, whose horses' 
backs were sore. I felt stupified from the cold and loss 
of rest, having walked my round five hours last night. We 
went on 12 miles, which we trudged on foot. At night 
we cut some branches of the cotton wood for our 
horses to eat. We were preparing to rest, when our 
Captain told us, if any man lost his horse he would have to 
walk back to Santa Fe. He further said, that we had to 
go through a gloomy region or desert, 85 miles in extent, 
where no wood or water could be procured. He' 
advised us to go to work and prepare food enough to 
last three or four days. I made up 30 lbs. of flour and 
baked eighteen cakes, w^hile the balance was attended to 
by my mess. 

19^^. — We were all busy providing against the perils of 
our difficult and dangerous march. We shall have to 
keep close company, as the Navihoe Indians roam this 



8I1( 



45 

lesert in bands. At 11 o'clock we moved off in fine 
order, and marched 15 miles over the dreary plain. At 
3 o'clock at night the Captain ordered a halt. We picked 
ip a few weeds, kinled a little fire, took a cold cut of bread 
^ind meat, and laid on the ground to rest, without erecting 
:ents. A young man having drank too much of the 
' ardiente," very unluckily offended one of the officers, and 
was ordered to be tied to the wagon wheel. He cut a va- 
riety of capers Avhiie this was being done. His friends 
jsoon set him at liberty. 

r 20th. — The news of a " spring in the desert " was 
brought by some scouts, who had started out on an ex- 
ploring expedition. They found the spring in a place 
[full 6 miles from our road. We drove the cattle over a 
miserably rough path to drink from the spring, which 
turned out to be a muddy pool. We afterwards marched 
jl5 miles and encamped late at night. We took a slice 
rof bread and meat, and laid down to rest on our blan- 
^kets. 

21st. — The appearance of our Captain very early this 
■morning, aroused us. He came with the intelligence that 
Major Gilpin had sent on an express last night for a rein- 
forcement, as he was expecting an attack every moment, 
from the enemy. In a few minutes we were on the march, 
and without stopping to take breakfast, w^e travelled 35 
miles. We encamped late at night, 3 miles from the river, 
where men and beasts, thirsty and weary, were refreshed, 
I was afraid my horse would kill himself drinking. With 
six others, I pressed some oxen from the traders, whom we 
found encamped here, as most of our teams had given out, 
and were left upon the road. 

22nd. — Passed over 14 miles of broken, wretched 
country to-day, the soil of which produces nothing but a 
kind of shrub called soap-weed. The inhabitants, it is 
said, use this weed in washing their clothes. We encamped 
in a rough place, among stones and hillocks. 

23d. — I trust the end of this ''jornada^J as it is called, 
and which means the "region of death," is nearly reach- 
ed, for a march of 12 miles brought us to a village, where 
we halted to take in provisions brought by our Quarter 



46 

Master. Proceeding two miles further, we came up to 
Major Gilpin, whom we found encamped on a large 
sandy plain. We had to go 2 or 3 miles for wood. Ouf 
flour was nearly gone, and we had a little beef soup and 
rice for supper at night. The boys being still hungry, 
we went to the village and procured some dried fruit and 
pumpkins, which we sliced up and stewed in our camp 
kettles. Of this fare we partook heartily, and laid down 
to sleep in the sand. 

24/A. — The first blast of the bugle this morning made us 
hurry into line. Some of the men being rather tardy, 
were too late, and they were told by the officer who in- 
spected us, that any man who did not come into rank at 
the sound of the bugle, would be made to stand guard 
three days. We broke ranks and ate our breakfast, 
which consisted of a small piece of bread, made up with 
pumpkin. The weather is now quite pleasant, and the 
country, hitherto so uniformly desolate, begins to improve 
in appearance. 



BATTLE OF BRACITO. 

26th. — In the union of our forces we are one thousand 
strong. Moved as early as suual from the position we 
have occupied the last three days, and after marching 12 
miles, we came to Bracito, and encamped as 10 o'clock. 
We stripped our horses as usual, and picketed them out, 
went to hunt wood to cook our dinners. Some of 
the men had gone at least a mile from camp, when the 
alarm w^as given, " to arms ! to arms .^" Looking in the 
direction pointed out, we saw a cloud of dust, as if the 
whole of Mexico was coming down upon us. Unwilling ii?a 
to throw away our wood, w^e ran with our turns on ourlfai 
shoulders, when we heard an officer hallooing, "Throw iiea 
away your wood, and bring your horses into camp."!;lia 
We obeyed the order as quickly as possible. We found !;iir 
our Orderly at his post, directing the men to load Ito 
their guns and get into line. Every man was at his 



47 



proper places in a few minutes. By this time the Mexi- 

I' can army was in sight, and had formed in battle array at 

a distance of a mile from us. Presently an officer came 

out of their ranks,>andsomely mounted, and bearing a 

black flag. Colonel Milchell, accompanied with the inter- 

preter, rode up to meet him on half-Avay ground, to inquire 

his business. He told them he had come to demand 

the surrender of our entire force, by submitting, he sai-i 

I our lives would be spared; if we did not, every 

j! man would be put to death. Our interpreter cut short 

his harangue, by telling him to "go to hell and 

wT^n^^i. '!' ^Z^^^' ^^ *^^ meantime our company, 
j [the Chihuahua Rangers,) received orders from head quar- 
jiers, to right about face, and march from the rio-ht, where 
we were somewhat protected by brush, weeds, and 
gopher hills, to the extreme left, in open ground, to with- 
3tand the^ charge of the Mexican cavalry,- so off we 
j iiarched m double quick time, to our position on the left 
Our Captain here told us to reserve our fire till the 
, memy was in fair rifle distance, and added that he hoped 
1 10 man in his command would act the coward, but all 
^ould do their duty as volunteers and American soldiers. 
de had scarcely done speaking, when the enemy com- 
nenced firing at us, from three to four hundred yards 
iistant. They advanced closer, and continued to ad- 
vance, pouring in volley after volley, till the sound of 
•mllets over our head reminded me of a hail storm — 
^e waited impatiently for the word of command It 
vas at length given, " fire." One loud peal of thunder 
vas heard from our Missouri rifles. Consternation and 
lismay was the result, for, thrown into confusion, the 
Vlexicans commenced obliquing to our left. Another 
'olley, well aimed, caused them to retreat towards our 
vagons. Here they were met by a round from the 
vagon company. In the meantime Captain Reed, at the 
lead of eighteen men, well mounted, pushed after them 
basing them to the mountains. All their provisions 
;iins, sabres, camp furniture, &c., besides one 10 pound 
lowitzer fell into our hands. The Mexican loss was 
estimated at thirty or forty killed and wounded, while we 



48 

had but two slightly wounded. The Mexicans left their 
dead on the field. 

2Qth. — With fifteen prisoners, and a few wounded Mex- 
icans, we resumed our march, the main army being flanked 
on both sides, and came on 16 miles and encamped in a 
desolate place, filled with thorn bushes. Here we prepared 
our supper, and were about to sit down, when the report 
of a gun from the picket guard, caused us to extinguish the 
fires, and form in line as quickly as possible. Presently ! 
our Lieutenant rode up and said it w^as a false alarm. We 
were ordered to break ranks and get our supper. Again 
w^e commenced that unfortunate meal, when the report of 
a second gun, so loud as to be heard by every one, again 
made us put the tires down. There was a tremendous clat- 
tering of arms, for ail formed in line in a few seconds. At 
this moment Lieut. Cribbons rode up, and said that on 
visiting one of the outer pickets, he was requested to give 
the countersign by the guard, whose gun was cocked, and 
he accidentally let the hammer down too heavily, causing 
it to explode, the load passing close to the Lieutenant's 
face. After hearing this statement, we again broke ranks, 
to resume our supper. I stood sentinel, to guard the 
wagons and a piece of artillery taken from the enemy, tilli 
12 o'clock, then went to bed ,• was awakened again at 3, 
and stood till 6 o'clock. 

Sunday, 21th. — Col. Doniphan wishing an early start, 
the roll was called at light, and we moved on in the same 
order as yesterday, with front and rear guard. We had 
scarcely travelled six miles, when at a distance over the 
river was seen a dust as if a body of horsemen were 
meeting us. We were told to keep cool, and obey orders. 
Continuing our course, we met several Mexicans bearing 
a white flag. Their commander coming up, presented 
Colonels Doniphan and Mitchell his sabre. They then 
drank wine and other liquors together, and we resumed 
our march, crossed the Rio Grande, and encamped in the 
town of El Paso del Norte about nightfall. This is the 
noted pass between Old and New Mexico. The town 
contains about seven or eight thousand inhabitants, and is 
built along the margin of the river, several miles in length 



49 

The environs are cultivated to some extent, and the usual 
varieties of fruit grow here in abundance. The river is 
compressed in many places to a very small compass, by 
the high and precipitous mountains, through which it 
winds its way. 

2Sth. — Established our quarters a mile from the city, 
where there is a large coral or enclosure, in which to 
keep our horses. Throughout the day a variety of fruit 
was brought to camp by the natives, and readily bought 
up by the soldiers. The wind was high, and we were 
nearly blinded by clouds of dust, which being mixed with 
isinglass is very hurtful to the eyes. 

29^/i. — To-day Col. Doniphan, while searching the 
town, found two pieces of cannon, and after breaking 
several locks, a good deal of ammunition was discovered. 
We all paraded and were carried through the regular 
drill. 

January \st, 1847. — The last two days being quite 
cold, with high winds, we kept in camp. After the 
usual parade to-day. Lieutenant Todd went to town 
about 10 o'clock in company with several of our men, but 
they returned in a short time at full speed, hallooing with 
all their might for us to get our horses quickly, and 
saddle up, for the Mexicans were coming on us. In a 
little while we were ready and marched over the river to 
join the other regiment, and prepared for battle. When 
we arrived at the ground, we were formed by Col. Don- 
iphan, who dispatched Col. Mitchell with twelve men to 
reconnoitre the enemy, w^ho were reported to be in sight. 
In the course of an hour, they returned and said it was a 
false alarm. We were marched to the public square, and 
informed by our Captain that arrangements were made 
to keep us in town, and that our camp equipage must be 
sent for. One out of each mess was directed to go with 
the wagons for that purpose. We were well supplied 
with fuel at night, and our quarters were quite com- 
fortable. 

2nd. — Nothing of importance transpired to-day. The 
roll was called, and we paraded twice, morning and 
evening. 



50 

Sunday 3rd. — The usual duties being over and a 
high wind prevailing, we did not go to church. Hear- 
ing that a sick horse was in the coral I went over to see, 
and found it was my mare. I brought her out to have 
her bled and physicked. I went to get assistance, 
and when I returned with a friend I found she had 
escaped ; searched the town three hours without finding 
her. 

4th. — Renewed my efforts to recover my lost horse ; 
walked till 3 o'clock, when I found her in the centre 
of a lot about two miles from town — dead. I hastened 
to Col. Mitchell and told him I was on foot, as my mare 
had lost breath and was laid up to dry. He advised me 
to look about and ascertain if I could suit myself. If I 
succeeded I was to call on him again in the morning. 

6th. — Our Orderly Sergeant in reading over the names 
of those to be placed on mounted guard, cried out mine. 
Accordingly, I with three others marched down to the 
public square, where we paraded, and dinner, or rather 
supper, being over, we were placed os sentinels till three 
o'clock in the morning. I then went to the guard fire, spread 
down my blanket and slept till day-light. 

6th. — To-day we are allowed two-third rations of 
coarse Taos flour, some coitee without sugar, and poor 
mutton. We sometimes got a few peaches from the inha- 
bitants in exchange for tobacco, buttons, &c. 

7^/i.— Finding our fiour nearly gone I went out and 
bought a baked pumpkin to mix with it; saw much fruit 
exhibited for sale, but had no money to buy any. Our 
scouting party which had heed sent out a few days ago, 
returned this evening, bringing three prisoners, a priest 
among them. They were captured 12 miles down, on 
their way to Chihuahua, with papers containing informa- 
tion of our movements to the Mexican army in that quar- 
ter. They were placed under strict surveillance. 

Sunday, 10th. — I went to church with a number of 
others, and witnessed ail the ceremonies, and manoeuvres 
of this singular people. The church is large, and the 
handsomest and best built house in the place. I saw the 
representation of Christ in the sepulchre, with various 



61 

other images in and near the alter. On our return, we 
found muhitudes in the open street, playing cards — -sorry to 
say, some were American soldiers. 

ISth. — Our time begins to hang heavily. The ordinary 
duties of the day are soon accomplished, and no novelty to 
amuse or excite, the soldiers become restless, and are 
ready for any excess. Our living consists of poor mutton, 
the miserable Taos flour, and a little coffee. Some com- 
plain, and others " hook " what they can to improve their 
fare. 

14M. — I was taken last night with a violent headache 
and a pain in the bowels. My diarrhoea having become 
much worse, I got up and went to the Surgeon, who gave 
me 15 grs. calomel, 10 do. jalap, 5 do. rhubarb, and 2 
do. tarter, all mixed up together in a dose. I took this 
monstrous compound, and sat by the guard -fire till morn- 
ing ; I then laid on my blanket, and slept till 3 o'clock in 
the evening. Needing some refreshment, I tried my mess, 
but they had nothing I could relish, and I then went to 
Sergeant Edwards, who gave me a lump of sugar to sweet- 
en my coffee. I tried in vain to borrow a picayune to 
purchase some molasses. At length I applied to a mess- 
mate, who had come to me a few days after my horse 
had died, bringing a mule, and saying if I would consent 
to let him draw the rations of my horse, I should have the 
uae of this mule. Yesterday I understood he had sent 
his mule away to graze, and was selling my corn. When 
I presented my petition, he turned his back as a refusal, 
and went down among the gamblers, and lost every cent. 

\bth. — Feeling disordered and ill, I applied early to 
our Surgeon, who gave me a small lump of sugar, charg- 
ing me to take particular care of the article, as it was only 
intended for the sick. He felt my pulse, and made me 
swallow a large dose of salts and tarter ; I then went to 
my blanket. 

16f/i. — I awoke this morning with a high fever and 
headache. The Surgeon gave me a large pill, and I 
was placed in the hospital, under the particular care of a 
doctor, whose name I could not learn, but who said he 



^ 62 

was from Philadelphia, and could out-practice any man 
in the regiment. Wishing some coffee, he very politely 
took a pinch of sugar between his thumb and finger, 
to sweeten it for me, talking the while of " his superior 
skill," &c. 

17//i. — Still in the hospital, but feeling better, I applied 
to the Quarter Master, who gave me four pints of Ameri- 
can flour ; I baked a small cake to eat with my coffee. At 
night I spread my blanket in the tent, and slept with my 
mess. 

18M. — At the sound of the reveille I arose and strolled 
over the grave yard, where the remains of young Leland 
were interred yesterday. This young man died of the 
fever prevailing among the troops, and his grave is close 
to the wall, fronting an old church in ruins. Piles of bones 
lay around ; in the centre of some hills were erected 
wooden crosses. 

2\st. — Since Tuesday last I have been ill in the hos- 
pital, with a high fever and headache ; bed hard and un- 
comfortable, consequenth^ little sleep or rest. The doc- 
tor, in his round, asked me why I was not out at the 
roll-call this morning, as my name was erased, by his 
direction, from the sick list. He said there was nothing 
the matter with me, and he would give me no more medi- 
cine. He charged me with being home-sick, &c., &c., 
w^ith many other tender and endearing epithets. Weak 
and quite unwell, I left the hospital, and found my way 
to Colonel Doniphan's quarters ; consulted Dr. Morton, 
who, with expressions of sympathy, gave me the necessary 
restoratives. I had symptoms of jaundice, with very sore 
eyes. 

26f/i. — I was somewhat recovered from my illness, 
through the humane treatment of Dr. Morton, but I still 
suffered considerably from my eyes. I felt much regret 
that I was prevented from joining Captain Hudson, who 
took our company on a scout, and will be gone several 
days. I begin to feel weary of our detention here, 
occasioned by the non-arrival of Capt. Weightman with 
the artillery from Santa Fe. Colonel Doniphan is hourly 
expecting this re-inforcement. 



53 

21!k. — Last evening a fellow was caught by our outer 
picket guard, who could give no satisfactory account of 
himself, and told so many contradictory tales, that our 
Colonel sent him to the guard-house. At ten o'clock 
our company returned from the scouting expedition ; 
they went down to the fort, 25 miles off, and found it was 
deserted. They think it very likely we shall have no 
fighting to do at Chihuahua. 

29th. — While on guard to-day over the prisoners 
taken at the battle of Bracito, I thought I would write in 
my journal ; I searched my belt for it in vain. It was 
gone !— taken out probably by some mischievous soldier 
in the tent. In this book I had faithfully kept an account 
of every thing interesting to myself at least, since the 
day I left Carroll County, Missouri. Having another 
blank book I commenced writing again, but felt provoked 
at my loss. 

30V/?. — This morning, being relieved from the duty of 
sentinel, I Avent immediately to Captain Hudson and stated 
the loss of my journal. He asked me a number of ques- 
tions in relation to it, and appeared pleased at so unusual 
an undertaking in a private. He went forward and told 
the soldiers that Maryland's book must be restored or every 
man in his command should be searched. 

ZAst. — The impatience of our boys for the arrival of the 
artillery has induced several to go out to meet it. This 
evening some of them returned, and said it was not more 
than 30 miles off. To-day my book was found on 
the floor of the tent. The robber was no doubt alarmed 
by the Captain's order, and dropped it in the most conve- 
nient place. 

Fehrnary 1st. — We paraded early, and about 12 
o'clock several rounds from our artillery-men, just across 
the Rio Grande, announced the arrival of Capt. Weight- 
man from Santa Fe, with four six pounders and two twelve 
pound howitzers. They marched in town in right order ; 
our men firing the salute from our piece of captured 
cannon just as they reached the public square. This com- 
pany is an important acquisition to our small force. 

Sd. — Early orders were received that Lieutenant Col. 



54 

Mitchell, at the head of the Chihuahua Rangers, would 
move down to the fort to-day. Every thing being in 
readiness we came on in double file, and arrived at sunset 
at a pretty little village. Our provision wagons bein^j de- 
layed on the road, every thing like food in this small place 
was had in requisition by the orders of the Colonel, and 
we made our supper on pies, cheese, bread, &c. 

Ath. — This morning we were told to saddle up and 
hasten forward to overtake the traders, who had dis- 
obeyed orders in preceding us ,* we were ordered to bring 
them back. In obedience to the orders we started and 
travelled 13 miles. On the way we saw several Mexi- 
cans, who endeavored to elude our observation. Our 
first and second Lieutenants wishing to know who they 
were, and on what errand bent, gave chase. After a run 
of two miles at full speed, they were overtaken and 
searched. One was the alcade from the town where we 
staid last night. We halted late in the evening on the 
road, where Ave met a Mexican fully armed, gun, sabre, 
&c. He was also stopped and minutely examined, but no 
papers being found on his person, he was suffered to pass. 

6?^.— Marched on several miles, overtook and encamp- 
ed with the traders, who had formed their wagons in a 
pen or coral, tried to refresh ourselves on a supper of 
black bread, poor beef, and sassafras tea, cooked over a 
fire of thorn bushes. The traders sell the bark of the 
sassafras at $1 per pound. A small cup of the decoction 
cost 25 cents to-night. 

QtJi, — The ground was so uneven we did not erect our 
tents, but spread our blankets and went to bed ; the cold 
prevented any thing like refreshing sleep. We arrived 
late at our former encampment, and found Colonel 
Mitchell had returned from El Paso, whither he had gone 
to see Col. Doniphan. He brought news which was 
currently reported there, viz. that Gen. Taylor had been 
overpowered at San Louis Potosi by the Mexicans, and 
was imprisoned, with 4000 regulars. Of course thi? was 
a Mexican story, told no doubt for effect — and it had its 
effect upon our boys, for it made us feel as if we 
could fight like lions against the treacherous foe. We 



65 

waited at this place for Col. Doniphan, who was making 
every preparation for our dangerous trip. I made for my 
ovvn use to-day a pair of wooden spurs. 

1th. — This morning after roll call and breakfast, we 
fed our horses and mules, and tried to rest and amuse bur- 
selves. At supper I made some pancakes, without milk or 
eggs ; unfortunately I put rather too much salt in my bat- 
ter. Fifteen men were sent down the river on a scouting 
expedition to-night. My name was called to be guards so 
I gathered up my blanket, and went into the line with the 
rest. I was placed in the first relief, near the river. I 
walked two hours, then went to bed at 12 o'clock, by the 
guard -fire ; I was awakened by the Corporal at three, and 
stood till morning. 

8?A. — Prepared my clothes by washing and mending, 
for our departure. Boiled some beans and beef for my 
mess. The weather was very disagreeable, and we all felt 
weary of our delay. 

9//i. — While busily engaged fixing up to-day. Colonel 
Doniphan came on with the artillery, and encamped near 
us. All is now bustle and excitement, as it is said we will 
start in the morning. 

\Qth. — Col. Doniphan has concluded to stay here to- 
day with the army, as it is very cold and cloudy. Our 
boys are making desperate efibrts to amuse themselves. 
Among other things, our suttler is here, with his estab- 
lishment, and whiskey is selling at 75 cents per pint 
With some honorable exceptions, the scenes among offi- 
cers and men may be much " better imagined than de- 
scribed." 

Wth. — The whole of Colonel Doniphan's regiment, in- 
cluding the Chihuahua Rangers, started this morning for 
the- South to join General Wool. We marched in right 
order 12 miles, and encamped on the bank of the river. 

\2th. — The wagons not coming in last night, some 
imeasiness was expressed by our Commander, when, 
with fifteen others, I returned to where we encamped the 
night before, and found the train just about to move on. 
W^e passed a caravan, who told us they had lost the last 
night 250 mules and 50 yoke o[ oxen, driven off by the 



56 

Indians. We came to our camp and found cooking to be 
the order of the day. We are about entering another 
Jornada, and provisions for four days must be packed. 

I3th. — Detained here to have all in complete readiness. 
The Indians were at their thievish work again. Last night 
they drove off some cattle and mules belonging to the trad- 
ers. The skill and daring evinced by these bands of sav- 
ages, exceed belief. They follow the army, and are always 
prowling around our camp at night. 

Sunday, 14^/i.— Although on m.ounted guard nearly all 
night, I made all the haste I could to eat an early break- 
fast and saddle up. I was among the first in the ranks. 
Here we were told that the burial of two soldiers, who 
expired last night, would only detain us a few minutes 
longer. The mournful ceremony ended, we started at 8 
o'clock ; came on the Jornada five miles, and halted to feed 
our horses and mules. I was in the rear guard behind the 
prisoners all day ; travelled a long and wearisome journey 
through the sand, until 8 o'clock at night. I ate a small 
piece of bread and meat, and spread my blanket at the 
guard-fire, where I slept till four. I was awakened by the 
officer of the watch, and stood till six. I was at last re- 
lieved by the sound of the tattoo. 

15th. — 12 miles further on we stopped to eat breakfast, 
which was a cold cut. We again moved on, and came 20 
miles through this Jornada, and encamped late in the night. 
No w^ater was as yet to be seen. Our Sergeant measured 
to each man a half pint. One man sold his half pint for 
50 cents. 

16th. — We made an early start, and after marching 15 
miles, came to some puddles of dirty water. Our horses 
and mules rushed in and drank all they could get. 
Ascending the hill before us, a spring was discovered, but 
the water was muddy and brackish. At night had a slight 
shower of rain, with lightning and thunder. 

11th. — On awaking, the first thing I heard, was that a 
man in our company was dead. The poor fellow had 
left a wife and family in Missouri to serve his country. 
He was taken sick at El Paso, with the measles, and had 
come thus far to die. We followed his remains to the 



67 

grave, where our Captain stood forth and made an im- 
pressive speech. He stated that " this was the third time 
he had been called, on occasions like the present, to per- 
form the moiirniul duty to men in his command, and that 
it was wisdom for each and all to prepare for the worst, " 
&c. The usual rounds were fired, and we covered poor 
Tolly over with soap-weed, and filled up the grave. 
After trampling the dirt and levelling the ground, we 
marched off in right order to this spot, where we shall rest 
to-day. 

\lth. — Loaned my mule to a soldier who had lost his 
horse, to enable him to go in search. I was rewarded 
for this favor, by being compelled to stay behind my 
company several hours, till he returned with his horse. 
We pursued our journey two miles, and overtook the 
command at a Hot Spring, which was discovered on the 
top of a small eminence. It boiled up very curiously in 
the centre, covering the surface with bubbles. The tem- 
perature about 100 degrees. The water is scarcely fit to 
drink, having a very disagreeable taste, nevertheless, the 
men filled their canteens, saying they would drink it when it 
got cold enough. The country still presents a barren ap- 
pearance, the soil sterile ; the surface rocky and moun- 
tainous. We marched 14 miles, and about sunset, en- 
camped close to a small stream, which supplied a few 
poor villages with water. The people busied themselves 
in preparing for us, what they could, viz. a little musket 
brush to cook with, and corn for our cattle. In crossing 
this Jornada, the teamsters w^ere obliged to throw away 
5000 pounds of flour, and leave several wagons behind — 
the mules being unable to proceed. 

19//?.. — After a journey of such a length over uneven 
ground, the fatigue of the army induced our Commander 
to remain in camp to-day. About two o'clock the wind 
began to rise, and increased in violence till the tents were 
levelled to the ground. We tried to cook by digging pits 
in which to place the fire. The sand blowing in clouds, 
covered our food ; making it gritty and unpleasant 
to eat. As night came on, a heavy storm of wind 
stripped our wagons of their covers. Quite unshel- 



68 

tered, we had to do the best we could, and that was had 
enough. We laid down, as we had often done before, 
on our blankets. We slept uncomfortably on hillocks and 
tufts of grass. 

20th. — The wind having abated, we were all in line at 
an early hour — came nine miles through this ranch, to 
the mouth of another Jornada. Here the same scene of 
desolation is presented. No cultivation to be seen any 
w^iere, nor scarcely any natural vegetable production ex- 
cept the thorn and muskeet brush. The days are warm, 
and the nights very cold, in this region. 

2'ist. — Marched ten miles out to the Hot Springs, which 
are situated in a ranch, and encamped. The army 
will here halt a day or two. The same arrangements 
are to be made as before. While cooking my meat 
and bread, I was informed by the Orderly, that with 18- 
others, I was appointed to go before the command sev- 
eral miles. Hastily dispatching the meal, we mounted 
and rode out a long distance, w^here we had to stand all 
night. We made a small fire of brush weed on the road side. 

22c?. —I was relieved from duty early this morning by 
the next detail. Feeling much disordered from loss of 
rest and fatigue, I was greatly obliged to a messmate 
who very thoughtfully brought me some water and a 
piece of bread for my breakfast. The army appearing, 
we went into line by sections of four, and marched 17 
miles, where we encamped at a place where the men had 
water ; but none could be spared to the poor horses and 
mules. After eating some bread, we laid down on the 
ground and went to sleep. 

2Sd. — Without waiting for refeshments of any kind, 
we cam.e on to-day eight miles to a pond, where we 
watered our horses and mules — we stopped for the poor 
animals to graze awhile, and then proceeded three miles, 
when we halted for the night at a stream of water. Sev- 
eral antelopes were killed to-day. After the tents were 
fixed up, we boiled some of the flesh, which made fine 
eating ; the repast was seasoned with a good appetite, a fast 
of nearly forty-eight hours, had made us hungry enough. 

24:th. — In conversation with my Captain, I expressed 



59 

a wish to go up a neighboring mountain, as I under- 
stood a large Tagoon could be seen from its summit. 
He told me to go and make all the observations I could. 
Having no time to lose, I commenced its ascent, by 
climbing over large rocks, in which were formed several 
immense caves ; some of them I thought were well fitted 
to be the resort of robbers. At length I found myself on 
the top, and sat down to write. At the distance of three 
miles a lake of considerable extent is seen, reposing in 
the bosom of a prairie, bounded by the horizon. To the 
left a continuous range of mountains loom up, whose bare 
and rugged tops present to the mind the idea of coldness 
and desolation. The whole face of the country is desti- 
tute of wood and verdure, except a species of brush or 
thorn bushes. - Looking towards our camp, I beheld a 
long line of wagons stretching along the road as far as 
the sight could reach. They were all in motion, and the 
sight made me hasten down the mountain at a brisk pace. 
It was our army preparing for a start, and I did not wish 
to be left " solitary and alone," in that rocky region. In 
a few minutes we took up the line of march ; came 12 
miles, and encamped at sunset. We saw Mexican spies at 
a distance. The picket guard came in and reported that 
10,000 Mexicans were at a lake some miles off, ready to 
give us battle. 

26th. — The sound of the reveille started every man to 
his post by light. We moved on 8 miles to the lake, 
and watered our horses and mules. We saw nothing of 
the Mexicans. The country begins to improve as we 
leave the Jornada, especially on the margin of these lakes 
or ponds, the water of which is brackish. Here prairie 
grass grows with some luxuriance. Kindling a fire, the 
soldiers commenced baking bread, made from the 
wretched native flour, now our only fare. A high wind 
prevailing, sparks were carried out, which set the dry 
brush and weeds in a flame. The Chihuahua Rangers had 
orders to subdue the fire, and we commenced threshing 
it out with our blankets, but the wind increasing, we 
found it useless labor. The flames continued to increase 
in spite of us. The whole command was put in action 



60 

with their horses, beating a track, to stop the progress 
of the fire. Unfortunately for us, the fire caught the 
grass on the other side of the track, and the wind blowing 
tremendously, the fire was carried in almost every direc- 
tion. We then encamped on the burnt ground, off of 
which the grass had been burnt, and picketing our horses 
on the left of the road in the prairie, we laid down to rest. 
In a few hours we were awakened to bring our horses in, 
for the whole prairie was on fire. Coming out of my tent, 
a sight appeared of such magnificence as had never before 
met my eyes. It was an opposite mountain on fire, and 
the whole prairie, as far as the eye could reach, in flames. 
A strange glare tinged the clouds, and all surrounding ob- 
jects, and presented a scene which was fearfully grand. 
It consumed nearly all the grass in the country 15 miles 
towards Chihuahua. 

26th. — We continued winding through the mountain 
passes and plains 16 miles. Our advance found a coral 
to-day, in which were 50 sheep and 15 cattle, driven in 
from the surrounding neighborhood. They were immedi- 
ately butchered for the command, the soldiers being nearly 
exhausted for want of food. This was a dreadful day for 
our march. The wind was so high that we could scarcely 
see a hundred yards ahead. 

21ih. — The artillery and wagons were kept in front all 
day, the whole army being formed in two lines in the rear. 
We marched in right order 8 miles, and encamped on the 
margin of a lake. Here we shpll halt till to-morrow. 
Scouts were sent out in everj^ direction. I was busily en- 
gaged writing for our boys, who believe themselves to be 
on the eve of some engagement with the enemy. Saw 
several of our men come in, leading a horse ; soon learned 
that spies being seen by our advance, Capt. Skillman of 
the traders' company, and Capt. Parsons of the E company 
from Cole County, with others, gave chase, and overtook 
one. The fellow, finding he was likely to become a pris- 
oner, leaped ojfF, and fled up the mountain, leaving his 
horse and all his rigging behind. He was elegantly mount- 
ed. Col. Mitchell has just informed us that a battle will 
be fought to-morrow. 



«1 




BATTLE OF SACRAMENTO. 



Sunday, 28^A.— At sunrise this morning, we took up our 
line of march, having learned from our spies that the 
enemy in great numbers, had fortified the pass of the 
river Sacramento, about 15 miles off. Our trains consist- 
ing of 315 traders' wagons, and our Commissar}^ and 
company wagons, in all about 400, were formed into four 
columns, so as to shorten our lines. The whole com- 
mand marched In right order between the columns, thus 
concealing our force from the enemy. When we arrived 
within three miles of their entrenchments, Col. Doniphan 
made a reconnoisance of their position, and examined the 
arrangements of their forces. This was easily done, as our 
road led through an open prairie valley between the 
hi^ mountains. The pass of the Sacramento is formed 
by a point of the mountains on our right, their left extend- 
ing into the valley, so as to narrow the valley about one and 
a half miles. On our left was a deep, dry channel of a 
creek, and between these points, the plain rises abruptly 
about 50 or 60 feet. The road passes down the centre of 
the vallev, and in the distance we had a full view of 
6 



62 

the Mexican army. On the point of the mountains, they 
had a battery of four guns, so elevated as to sweep the 
plain. On the left, there was another battery commanding 
the road, w^ith six pounders and rampart pieces, mounted 
on carriages. Their cavalry was drawn up in front 
of their redoubts, in the interval of four deep. When 
we had arrived near their entrenchments, our columns 
suddenly diverged to the right, so as to gain the elevation, 
which the enemy endeavored to prevent by moving 
forv/ard wdth four pieces of cannon and 1000 cavalry. 
But our movements were so rapid, that we not only gained 
the eminence, but were formed in order for their reception. 
Our company (Capt. Hudson's) now dismounted, and 
every eighth man was detailed, to hold horses and mules. 
It fell to my lot to hold eight mules. The action now 
commenced by a brisk fire from our cannons, doing consi- 
derable execution at the distance of twelve hundred yards, 
killing fifteen of the enemy, and disabling one of their 
guns. Our fire was briskly returned from 14 pieces of 
artillery, sending ragged balls, and heavy copper ore. 
But being badly aimed they stuck in the ground about 
forty or fifty yards before us, and rebounding passed over 
our heads without harm, except slightly wounding two 
men, and killing several horses and mules in the rear. 
Our guns were so well aimed as to compel the enemy to 
fall behind the breastworks. We resumed our march in 
our former order, diverging as much as possible to the 
right, to avoid a heavy battery, and their strongest re- 
doubts, which were on our left, near the common road. 
After marching as far as we thought it prudent, without 
coming in range of their heavy battery, Capt. Weightman 
of the artillery, was ordered to charge it with two 12 lb. 
howitzers, to be supported by the cavalry, under Captains 
Reid, Parsons and Hudson. We then remounted and 
charged the battery from right to left, with a brisk and 
deadly fire from our rifles. We then advanced to 
the very brink of their redoubts, and drove them 
out with our sabres. The enemy now fell back on their 
centre battery, where they made a desperate rally, and gave 
us a shower of balls and copper ore, which whizzed over 



63 



our heads without doing us any injury except wounding 
several men and killing a few mules and horses. Major 
Clarke was ordered to commence a heavy fire upon this 
hatterv which being well directed, together with the 
rlviP^iZnleot our^olumns, put them to flight over the 
mountains in utter confusion, leaving all their cannons, 
and the ground strewed with their dead and wounded. 
Thus ended the battle of Sacramento, which commenced 
about three o'clock, and ended about sun-set The en- 
emv numbered 4220 rank and hie, and lost 300 killed 
600 wounded, besides 40 prisoners The American force 
consisted of 924 effective men, 1 >i led, 11 wounded. 
Our success is to be attributed entirely to the superior 
skill of our commander. Had he not taken advantage of 
position, in keeping out of range of redoubts and batteries 
we should all have shared a common fate, as the back 
Diratical flao- was captured, together with a wagon load 
Sf that formidable wLpon, the^ lariat, which was intended 
to tie us all to our saddles in case of a defeat. The Mexi- 
cans lost ten pieces of artillery, varying horn five to en 
lbs. and seven one lb. culverines One of the canno is 
very valuable, being composed of silver and brass melted 
tocrether They also lost all their baggage, ammunition, 
&?,and provisions enough to last us three months were 
fo uAd in t'heir wagons, together with 84 00 >" spe"e. It 
was gratifying to see the soldiers shaking hands with 
their%fficers\fter the engagement, and e^denn^ the.r 
congratulations to their commander for h.s skill and bravery 
dislyed on this memorable occasion. The Surgeon 
are now busily engaged in admimstermg rel-,ei to 
the wounded ^fexicansrand it is a sight to see the pile of 
le-s and arms that have been amputated. _ The cries 
and -roans of the poor fellows, are distressing in the 
extreme. It is a fact worthy of note, that the atmos- 
nhere here in this mountainous region is so pertecdy 
pure and clear that a cannon shot can be seen coming, 
When it is a considerable distance off, by leaving a b ue 
streak in the air. Many a soldier saved his life in he 
battle by Aodmn" the balls as they came forward. \N hen 
a flash woulS be seen from the enemy's battery, you 



64 

could hear the soldiers cry out — " watch the ball boys ! 
— here comes a ball boys, " and they invariably avoided 
them, or the slaughter must have been very great. I 
sav/ a ball coming in the direction where I was, when 
immediately falling off my mule, it passed just over my 
saddle without injury. Our rapid movements seemed to 
astonish the enemy. Our four pieces of flying artillery, 
discharging five times in a minute, volleys of grape and 
canister, with chain shots, would rake the enemy's 
redoubts and cut roads through their lines, while our 121b. 
howitzers throwing a constant shower of bombs into the 
middle of their entrenchments, and the unerring aim of 
our Mississippi rifles, acting in concert, cast terror and 
dismay among the cowardly and unprincipled foe. Our 
men acted nobly, and in the hand to hand fight in the 
redoubts they fought to desperation. Lieutenant Sprawl, 
our 2d Lieutenant, a man over six feet high, with bared 
arms, and without his hat, his long hair, and beard stream- 
ing in the wind, with sword in hand, was charging the 
enemy at every point, when a ball struck his splendid 
charger, and he fell. But seizing his carbine he kept up 
wiih us on foot. Another of our men, being unhorsed, 
and fighting near me, was attacked by a Mexican, who 
w^as about to lance him, and the poor fellow's gun being 
discharged, he picked up a rock, and throwing it, struck 
his enemy on the head, which felled him to the earth, 
when he knocked his brains out with the butt of his gun. 
These were but common occurrences in that hard con- 
tested fight, where we had to contend with nearly five to 
one. 

March 1st. — After spending a comfortable night, 
feasting on the good things of our enemy, and making 
our prisoners bury the dead, we started with the remains 
of Major Owings, and after marching four miles encamp- 
ed. My mule having received a wound in the lions yester- 
day^ cannot be found this morning, so I borrowed one of 
the Commissary. 

2d. — Placed on mounted guard to precede the army, 
whose entrance in the city will take place to-day. Came 
ten miles ; saw the spire of the Cathedral towering ia 



65 

the distance with peculiar feelings of delight. A merrier 
group could scarcely be pictured than our worthy Colonel 
Mitchell and his escort. We entered the beautiful city of 
Chihuahua about 12 o'clock, and proceeded immediately 
to the plaza or public square. The inhabitants are polite, 
and manifest, in various ways, the utmost complaisance 
and regard to our soldiery. Of course we s^e the fairest 
specimens of Mexican character here, and afford us evi- 
dences of superior intelligence, comfort, and industry. 
While the soldiers were scattered in various directions, 
seeking refreshments, I took a walk alone, and seated my- 
self in a quiet nook, fronting the Cathedral. It is an im- 
posing structure of white marble. It was about fifty years 
in building — the production of a gold mine — and cost three 
■millions of dollars. I felt too much fatigued to w^'ite a 
long description of even a beautiful church, although, had 
it been otherwise, such employment would have been 
pleasant to me. The tones of the beil are grand. It 
strikes the hour, and can be heard at a great distance. At 
sun-down Col. Doniphan arrived in town with the rest of 
the command, all in fine order. The band was playing 
Washington's March ; just as we reached the public 
square, the tune was changed to Yankee Doodle, when 
there was a general huzza. We then marched through the 
town, and took up our quarters on the outskirts. I was 
placed on picket guard, and had to be up all night — first 
to watch the prisoners, and then to walk my post three 
hours. 

Sd. — All is now tranquil. The funeral of Major Owings 
took place to-day. Every thing was conducted with the 
utmost decency and order. 

4:t'i. — This morning I sallied forth for a ramble. I 
went through the thickest parts of the city, which I should 
judge, contained about 40,000 inhabitants. The streets 
cross at right angles, and the houses are mostly built of 
the usual sun-dried brick, in Mexican style, with flat 
roofs, and close barred windows, as if intended for de- 
fence against street assaults, or rival factions. I v/as, 
afterwards, introduced to some senoras, and drank some 
6* 



66 

coffee with them — tliey using the ardiente instead of cream 
in theirs. 

6th. — Passing near the public square, I encountered 
Col. Mitchell, with several officers on horseback, before 
a handsome building. The Colonel was earnestly en- 
gaged in conversation with a man who, it appeared, 
was an Englishman. I soon learned that our Colonel 
wished to search the building, but the English gentle- 
man said he should not. I was called on, with several 
others^ w^io w^ere standing near, to form ranks, and go at 
once and arm ourselves. We ran to our quarters, and 
soon returned well equipped. I had not been in the 
line more than a minute, when I saw my entire company, 
the Chihuahua Rangers, come up. I, of course, left my 
position, and with them paraded before the house. The 
Englishman being still very stubborn, and refusing to 
give up the keys, the Colonel ordered two pieces of 
artillery to be brought down immediately, and placed be- 
fore the door. . Turning to look for the man, I found he 
had escaped to the top of a house, not far off, where he 
stationed himself to watch our movements. He no 
sooner espied the cannon, than he ran down in great haste, 
begging for a few minutes to open the door, saying 
" somebody might be killed," &c. We then entered 
peaceably. Magoffin, the trader, whom the authorities 
of the city had condemned to death as a traitor, cannot 
be found. On inquiry, we learned that he had been sent 
to Durango. But several are of opinion that he has been 
killed. 

6^/i. — I went to the Secretary's office and wrote letters 
to my sisters in Maryland. 

10th — For several days past we have been relieved from 
all extra duty, only answering the rolj-call night and morn- 
ing. I have been busily engaged to-day writing letters 
for different persons. 

I'^th. — During the past week I have had no time to 
write in my journal. I have been busy waiting letters for 
others, and assisting in writing out requistions, &c. I 
received to-night the first number of the '' Anglo Saxon,-' 
a paper printed by our boys, and the first American news- 



67 



,aper ever published in Chihuahua O" Wednesday the 
I6th, the express started from here for the United States. 
VTany weary months have passed, and we have heard no 
idings from home and friends. Truly a soldier's lot is a 

'^ilr— I had a chill last night, which ended in a fever. 
[ felt thankful that I was favored with every attention 
rom Lieut. Sprawl, who is as kind and generous as he 
s brave. A few hours sleep recovered me m somede- 
xree from the stupidity in which the fever left me, and I 
arose fVom the stone 'floor refreshed. I went to church, 
which was opened for Mass, but soon returned with a 
headache, longing for the simple and sweet worsnip of my 
own church at home. An express, consisting ot twelve 
men, was sent on to General Taylor to-day. 

mh.-l took a stroll through the town ; vvent down to 
the American Hotel to learn what news was stirring. JNo- 
thinp- is heard from the South. 

2ldl%e have at this time all that is necessary for 
our comfort, and nothing to do but attend to our shgh 
duties, and take care of our mules and horses. A stuct 
guard is kept. The captured cannon is m charge of the 
lon-commirsioned officers, and our company has to 
practice target shooting. Being number four, I have to 
touch off the guns. The concussion jars my head so 
muc that I have to place a quid of tobacco m each 
X ek to prevent it from'^injuring my teeth which are very 
sore The companies are'all well disciplined, and wi h 
^ our 25 pieces of artillery. Colonel Doniphan says he would 
defy 10,000 Mexicans. When not on duty, our men resort 
, to every kind of mischief by way of amusement Two 
pieces o^f artillery, found at this place, were, by them on 
yesterday, dismounted and blown up. They were filled 
l?th powder and plugged, and the muzzles being buried 
i^ the earth several ffeet, a slow match was applied. The 
reports were terrific. They have also burnt all the pow- 
der A train, nearly one-iburth of a mile in length, v^s 
made and set off, an! which ignited several barrels at ite 
termination. The poor affrighted Mexicans meanwhile 
ran off, crying "no wano, no wano," (very bad, verj bad.) 



68 

Another species of fun, consists in collecting all the dog8 
that can be found during the day, and carefully shutting 
them in a room ; at night each dog is brought out, and a large 
bundle of fire works fastened to his tail. He is then let 
loose, amid the general halloo ; and being enveloped in 
sparks, accompanied with the noise of small fire arms, 
wherever he runs in the crow^ded streets, the Mexican 
fly before him with the utmost consternation. 

Sunday, April 4th. — This was the appointed morning 
for us to leave Chihuahua for the south. But on ac- 
count of a bull fight, our trip is postponed. As soon as 
church was over, the soldiers hastened to see this great 
sight. As I was conscientious in regard to the violation 
of the Sabbath, I, of course, staid behind ; I was, how- 
ever, informed by the men on their return, that five bulls 
were let loose, but none were killed. If they cannot 
strike the animal in some vital part, they are obliged to 
let him live. The blows were badly dealt, and the bull 
escaped. This is a strange mixture of Christianity with 
the barbarities of heathenism. Card playing, cock fight- 
ing, bull baiting, and dancing, are the chief amusements 
of these people, and they are always accompanied with 
excessive drinking, not unfrequently with quarreling and 
fighting, in which the belligerents are bruised, their 
limbs broken, and their lives sometimes destroyed. 
What an idea of the character of God must be entertain- 
ed in the midst of such performances ? He can hardly be 
regarded as a God of love, whose delight is in the up- 
right walk and chaste conversation of his people. The 
service of that blinded population, comports better with 
what we might suppose would be the worship of the 
devil, were such worship distinctly ordered ! Alas ! 
for the darkness in which so many of our race are en- 
veloped! 

6th. — The wagons were loaded for our long jour- 
ney — but a difficulty in getting our soldiers together de- 
tained us till two o'clock, P. M. At length, every 
thing being in readiness, we started out of town. Some 
of our men imagined themselves commanders in chief, 
assumed to give orders, and were otherwise trouble- 



69 

isome. We succeeded in reaching a ranch, twelve miles off, 
and encamped. 

■ 6^A.— moved on twenty-five miles, and stopped at a 
;ranch late in the evening. Putting our horses in a clover 
field, we spread our blankets on the ground and rested till 

morning. . ., j 

7^/2,.__After accomplishing another 2o miles to-day, 
we erected our tents close to the walls of a town. Here 
we were joined by two strangers, who said they came from 
a coral, 140 miles off, to inform us that a large Mexican 
force of about 10,000 soldiers were on their way to 
re-take Chihuahua. They also stated that Generals 
Taylor and Wool had gone far to the south, in the direction 
of the city of Mexico. These men being ^ native 
Americans induced our Colonel to listen to their story, 
which if true, would have placed us in a bad situation 
With one half of our command left behind at Chihuahua, 
we could be easily cut off from this point. 

8^/i._This morning we had orders to start back to 
Chihuahua. After marching 25 miles reached the second 
ranch, and encamped. 

Qth.—Om Sergeant woke us all at two o clock to get 
our breakfast, and make an early start. We travelled 
briskly 36 miles, and arrived at Chihuahua about four 
o'clock. Here we are again in the city, at our old 

quarters. , , . . n c 

Uth.—l have been employed m writing lor our burgeon 
and others, for several days past. Yesterday we heard that 
Vera Cruz was taken by Gen. Scott. Twenty-eight rounds 
were fired by our artillery-men. 

l^th.—l witnessed to-day the mode of punisament 
among the Mexicans, and felt disgusted at the sight. 
Offenders are tied to a tree and severely lashed for different 
offences. I saw several whipped to-day for horse steal- 
ino-. At night it commenced raining. The first ram 
since we have been in the city. I was too sick to perform 
the duty of sentinel. i t . i 

IQth.—The morning air being clear and cool 1 took a 
walk to relieve the excessive languor I feel. I have 
little or no appetite, and ray spirits are very much de- 



70 

pressed. I went to the American hotel, where a great 
many questions were asked me. While there I read an 
advertisement of a grand ball to be given on Sunday, 18th, 
enhance |2. It is really distressing to contemplate 
the desecration of the Sabbath in this country. Oh ! how 
I long to be once more in a truly Christian land, and among 
congenial spirits. 

Sunday, ISth. — Various exhibitions encountered at every 
step throughout the city to-day. Sunday as it is, gambling is 
the most prominent. At night the greater part of our men 
went to the ball. 

19th. — Drew off some writing for our Doctor ; after- 
wards, with a messmate, took a bath in the river — still 
quite sick, and nothing to eat, but poor beef, with bread 
and coffee. This stone floor is particularly hard to rest 
on. 

24:ih. — I went with a Mexican to see the prison. He 
was very polite and accommodating ; he took me through 
the cells, and showed me the blocks, and chains, handcuffs, 
lariats, &c., that had been prepared to keep all the prisoners 
safely, which they expected to have taken in the battle. 
They were to have been kept here until they could be 
marched on foot to the city of Mexico. But they counted 
their game a little the soon ! The prison is the darkest and 
most gloomy place I ever saw. 

Sunday morning, 25th. — Just as the church bells began 
to ring, our men geared up their mules, and at 11 o'clock, 
two companies started out of town with the artillery, and 
arrived about three o'clock at the first ranch. 

2Qth.—An early start took us to the second ranch 25 
miles. To-night our second battalion came up. 

21th. — After marching 36 miles to-day we came to a 
town called Santa Cruz, where we encamped. 

28th. — We lay by here, and wait for the rest of the 
army, which will start from Chihuahua to-day. 

29^/i,— At day break we set out, and after marching 
21 miles, came to Sousilla, a town situated on the river 
Conchas, which is, at that place, a considerable stream. 
I Vv^ent with one or two hundred others, and took a re- 
freshing bath. At night I cooked a supper of coarse 



71 

^bread, beef and coffee, with the materials of a coral, which 
^we tore down. 

30th. — Stiil travelling on the Rio Conchas. Passed a 
town called Los Cruezas, and at the end of 28 miles en- 
camped at the town of San Rosalia. Col. Doniphan's first 
battalion came up to-night. 

May 1st. — At the sound of the reveille all went in line, 
and after roll-call our Captain told us to get our arms in good 
order for inspection at nine o'clock. Every man was soon 
busy firing off loaded guns, cleaning out, &c. To-night 
I went into town and brought a welcome repast for my mess, 
viz. pork-steak and nice bread. 

2d. — Our Captain, afler calling the roll, told us that 
the reveille had sounded thus early for a* company to go 
in advance. Came out a few miles and stopped to in- 
spect a fort the Mexicans had erected to keep Gen. Wool 
ifrom marching to Chihuahua. It is nicely finished off, 
with port holes for their batteries, &c. The building 
I covers nearly an acre of ground ; but every thing is silent, 
' the place being entirely deserted. A fatiguing march of 
27 miles brought us to a ranch called Remado, where we 
passed the night. 

Sd. — The country is still barren between these ranchos, 
which are always found in fertile valleys, mostly inhabit- 
ed. Some muskeet brush was all we could fmd on our 
road to-day ; no verdant carpet of grass to relieve the eye 
from the strong glare of the rays of the sun pouring on 
the sandy plains as we passed along. A late hour brought 
us to a large town called Huadaquiila, on the Rio Florida. 
We travelled 30 miles to-day. 

4cth. — At ten we left — came out six miles and encamped. 
On our way we saw several monuments erected to 
various saints. A pile of rocks marks the grave of one 
great personage. In the centre of the pile is erected a 
cross, adorned with artificial flowers. The country 
around this town is cultivated; provisions are cheap and 
plenty. All the soldiers are now engaged in packing 
provisions and water ; the latter precious article, it is 
said, will not be found again till 65 miles are passed over. 
At four, P. M., we came on and travelled 25 miles in 



72 

this Jornada, and laid ourselves down to sleep in the 
sand, after taking a cut of meat and bread at nearly 12 
o'clock. 

6th. — By the time it was light our Orderly came around 
to rouse us to roll-call. Some poor fellows, half asleep, 
staggered oif into ranks. We started and marched 40 
miles through a thick dust, when we came to a pond of 
brackish water, which is sometimes found in these deserts. 
Here we halted for the night. The water was quickly 
drank by our famishing boys, notwithstanding it was a 
disagreeable mixture of salt and sulphur. 

6M.— The fatigue and sufferings of yesterday were 
not allayed by a report in carap that several thousand 
Mexicans were Jying in wait a tew miles ahead, in order 
to cut off our artillery. We marched on ten miles and 
stopped on the banks of the Rio Cerro Gordo, where we 
have tolerably good water. 

'Ith. — I arose from the guard-fire, where I had been 
stretched the last three hours dull and sleepy, having been 
on duty all the former part of the night ; I went to my 
mess, whom I found eating breakfast. As soon as we got 
through, our command started and travelled 30 miles. 
Here we stopped at a ranch, near which are several springs 
bursting from a bank, the water of which is veiy clear, but 
very warm, and of a most disagreeable taste. A few hun- 
dred yards from the camp we saw a large deserted fort, also 
a coral, which our boys tore down to cook with. The 
face of the country has nothing to recommend it, but a 
vast variety of cactus, beautifully in bloom all over the 
sandy plains. Covered with dust, I found a bath in the hot 
springs very refreshing to-night. 

Sunday, 9th. — Pursued our way uninterruptedly the 
past two da3'S and travelled 40 miles. At night we en- 
camped at a town called Mapemilla. At our approach the 
inhabitants tied to the mountains. It was a fine night, 
and their fires in the distance, dotting the mountain side, 
had a singular and romantic effect. News met us here 
that Gen. Scott had whipped Santa Anna, which caused 
Col. Doniphan to fire a salute of 29 rounds. 

20^^. — At 3 o'clock this morning the reveille sounded. 



73 

A little coarse bread, and coftee without sugar, constitu- 
ted breakfast, on which we travelled 30 miles. We 
halted late at night, at a ranch called San Sebastian, on 
the Rio Mosas, a stream sufficiently large for swimming. 
It was soon covered with our soldiers enjoying this rare 
luxury. 

11th. — At an early hour we had to bury two of our 
men, who died yesterday. They were found last night, 
(after our fatiguing march of 30 miles,) dead in the wa- 
gons. They w^ere buried in a warlike manner. We 
crossed the river two miles below the tow^n, and pursued 
our route 30 miles to another village, called San Lorenzo. 
Here we encamped, but suffered much inconvenience 
from want of water, having to use it very sparingly. 
To-night another grave was opened for another of our 
men. 

12tL — As usual, our whole command was put in mo- 
tion at three o'clock, and after marching seven miles 
through a thick dust, had orders to halt and turn back, 
for we had left the right road behind. Our army turned 
about and travelled several miles until we got right. At 
the end of 18 miles we encamped on the Rio Mosas. 
Here, unable to join the swimmers, from a violent attack 
of ear-ache, accompanied with a most painful sore mouth, 
which latter I have suiFered with since leaving Chihua- 
hua, I went to a Dutch surgeon for advice. He looked 
in my mouth a few seconds, and with an air of confidence 
declared that nothing ailed me. I determined thereafter to 
bear my pains like a hero, and almost vowed that I would 
never pester a Dutchman either for his sympathy or his 
prescriptions. 

loth. — This morning we started early, and after travel- 
ling 30 miles, reached a ranch. The first objects that 
i met our eyes, were six Indians lying dead. They had 
been killed by our advance guard of about 30 rank and 
file, under Captain Reid. The guard was unexpectedly 
attacked by a body of Indians, which they repulsed, 
after killing 13 of their number, with their chief. He 
must have been a desperate warrior, for even after he 
was shot down, and to the last moment of his life, he 
7 



74 

tried to use his bow and arrows. These fellows were seen 
coming from a gap of the mountain, some distance off, 
making direct for our little party, who went out at full 
gallop to meet them. A discharge of arrows was met by a 
volley from our men. A considerable skirmish now en- 
sued. The Indians, raising the war-whoop, rushed on 
them, discharging their arrows with incredible rapidity; 
but they were forced to retreat, and these bodies were 
dragged hither as trophies. 

lith. — About one o'clock in the night, while our 
wearied solidiers slept, two guns vv^ere heard. In an in- 
stant our Captain jumped to his feet, and hurriedly went 
over the ground to wake us all up. In a few moments 
every man had on his arms. After waiting soma time 
for the enemy, news came that one of the Lieutenants 
was shot through the hand. It appears that this Lieuten- 
ant was officer of the night, and in his rounds tried to 
take a sentinel by surprise. Creeping stealthily on the 
ground to the spot, he was told by the sentinel to stop 
and give the countersign. No answer being returned, 
he tired. As soon as he found that he was shot in the 
hand, he returned the charge on the sentinel. But no one 
can tell as yet who this watchful sentinel is. I made up a 
fire to prepare coffee. At two o'clock the reveille sound- 
ed for all to saddle up. At four we started, and after 
marching 25 miles, came in sigixt of Parras, a large city. 
Our Adjutant chose a place for us to encamp, which is the 
beautiful grove of ornamental cotton trees. The scene is 
new and pleasant. Here are trees, green cornfields, and 
running streams. The gardens in and around the city are 
beautifully arranged, and tastefully supplied with ripe 
apricots, oranges, and lemons ; also a great variety of flow- 
ering shrubs and plants. 

\6tli. — We are to pass a day or two here, I believe, 
resting from our long travel. This morning one of our 
wagon drivers, who is a sailor, went up town, and by some 
means, most unfortunately, ofFendei several of the Mexi- 
can gentlemen. Complaint was made to the alcade, who 
ordered Jack to be taken to the caliboose and flogged, 
going in person to see it done. But Jack knocked him 



75 

lownand broke his sabre in pieces — whipping several 
others who came to the rescue, and finally walked off to 
:amp completely victorious. Word was brought to Col. 
Doniphan about the conduct of this man, who gravely 
:old the people that if Gen. Wool could do any thing with 
[lis men, it was more than he could with his. He said it 
ivas now too late for him to keep them in order, therefore, 
he should leave on Monday. 

Sunday, 16th. — Preparations are going on in different 
departments for the renewal of our march to-morrow. 
The expectation of soon encountering Generals Taylor 
and Wool, anpears to inspire our men with a desire to 
ook decent. Old clothes are being washed — sundry holes 
in deer skin pants are in the process of repair, and I think 
we shall not look so very ragged after all. 

11th, — Moved out of town at three o'clock, P. M. 
After marching five miles througli a broken, bare country, 
we came to a house, whose shingled roof indicated that 
its builder had been educated in the United States. We 
found it even so, although the man was a Mexican. We 
made a journey of 25 miles to-day, and had a supper of ex- 
cessively tough beef, and coarse bread. 

28//i.— On our way, very early, as usual — made 18 
miles with a severe ear-ache, from which I have suffered 
almost constantly for several weeks past. Strolling out 
after the tents were fixed up, I saw seme soldiers 
walking along with a man in front, whom 1 learned they 
whereabout to drum out of service. He proved to be a 
teamster, and not a volunteer. He had, without provo- 
cation, struck several Mexicans in Parras. The alcade 
sending on an express to Gen. W^ool for protection, in- 
duced Col. Doniphan to settle the business thus. He 
was made to walk beibre three armed men, behind whom 
several bugles performed a doleful ditty. When they 
arrived at the outskirts, the Captain ordered a halt, and 
proclaimed that the man was drummed out of service for 
misbehavior. Whereupon he ordered the men in front 
to kick him. The punishment having been inflicted, the 
poor fellow was turned off, to find shelter where he 
rould. 



76 



T[i;/j__To-nio-ht we are encamped at a rancb, almost 
overflowed with water, which is coming down with a rush, 
in consequence of a heavy rain in the mountains. Made |^ 

to-dav 25 miles. . . ^, ','• 

2lk-Yesterday and to-day we pursued our journey i)i 
without intermission. At night we encamped where Gen. i 
Wool had stationed 1000 men as picket guard. We re- 
ceived a treat in the shape of nice American flour and mess I 

pork, as rations. ^ ttt -i? 

22^-1 rode with several others to Gen. Wool s camp. 
On the way we passed over ^hj battle ground of , 
Buena Vista, and saw the remains of hundreds of Mexi- tl 
cans thrown in heaps, and covered over with cactus 
These remained undisturbed by the wo ves, while they 
had disinterred our Americans and ^ devoured tnem ; 
these animals make a practice in keeping m the rear ot 
our advancing armies, and always preier eating our 
men after death to the Mexicans. I spent an hour m 
contemplating the desolations of war-picked up a tew 
Spanish coins, a watch key, cross &c. win severa 
other little matters, as mementos. Gen. Wool s quartersi 
were to be seen in the distance. After spenamg an hour 
or two in camp, I returned to our boys, whom I toundl 
assembled in a congregation, and Capt. Reid holding 
forth in a speech, trying all his might, to get some oi our 
men to volunteer again, their term bemg nearly expired. 
This morning every preparation is made for the recep- 
tion of General Wool, who is expected to receive tnei 
command. All in right order, we marched out the ar- 
tillery in front, our company, (the Chihuahua Rangers)! 
next, and so on. As he rode up the artillerymen fired a^ 
salute, and while passing along the Unes with his escort, 
we had orders to "present arms." After the parade 
was oicr, we were marched back to camp, where the 
General came to inspect the captured cannon, and see the 
bbck flao-, taken at the battle of Sacramento. At night we 
drew rations of bacon and dried apples, which good things, 
some of our boys thought were given as a bnhe to induce 
them to re-enlist. 

Sunday, 23eZ.— We left at an early hour, and as we pass- 



77 



^d tbrough Gen. WooFs encampment, we turned over to 
.ini our ^American artillery, consisting of six pieces, re- 
^'cived at Santa Fe. We retained the Mexican cannon, 
iz. 17 pieces taken at the battle of Sacramento, and one 
\iece taken at Bracito, and marched on 12 miles to Saltillo, 
. lanre town among the mountains. The weather is warm 
^nd pleasant, and 'in right order we passed through, and 
sroceeded on eight miles ; we encamped at night in a 
^heat field. We saw to-day several deserted ranchos. 

24^/i.— After a long and fatiguing march of 32 miles, we 
[topped at a deserted ranch to pass the night. In winding 
•hrough the mountain passes to-day, we turned aside to 
.ee the fortifications which had been thrown up, to stop 
^he progress of Gen. Taylor to Saltillo. ^ 

25M.— An early start and fatiguing journey of 25 miles, 
[.roun-ht us within four miles of Monterey. From our 
pamp'we have a full view of the city and palace of the 
bishop. All this day our road lay through the narrow 
mss of the mountains, one of which is volcanic, and has 
)een burning for several years. A heavy rain descended 
j'O-night, drenching us completely, and in the midst of 
[vhich a grave was dug for a poor soldier, who has been 
^lick ever since we left Chihuahua. 

; 26^/i.— Through a heavy wind we rode into town, and 
i;topped to see the citadel and wall so bravely scaled by our 
Toops, after the enemy was driven from their redoubts. 
From this palace, a lovely and extensive view of the city 
jind surrounding country is presented. The southern 
.fruits and flowers are growing in great luxuriance. Alter 
'5ur men were satisfied with an inspection, we marched 
through the famous town of Monterey to Gen. /ajlor s 
camp, where we arrived at 12 o'clock. We found the old 
^hero encamped in the woods. Immediately on our arrival 
^e came to us, in company with Col. Doniphan, to see the 
>trophies of our victories. ' I was fortunate enough to grasp 
,!the hand of the old General. In the afternoon several 
ithousand pack mules were sent out with provisions lor 

sGen. Wool. „ . j /- + 

21th.— At day-break the roll-call was called, and tapt. 

.Hudson told us to saddle up and get ready to start. All 

7* 



78 

was in readiness, when orders came that we should be de- 
layed till 12 o'clock. A few minutes before that hour, ! 
Gen. Ta5dor with his escort rode up, and passed along the 
lines, with his hat off, to review us. We presented sabres 
and' then started on our way, the General escorting us 
some distance from his camp. After he left us, we pursu- 
ed our march through a country well covered with hack- 
berry and other trees. A long route of 32 miles brought 
us to a ranch, where we halted for the night. 

2Slh. — Arrived at a deserted ranch late 'm. the morning, 
after passing 40 miles over a most dreadful road. Being 
in the rear guard, I and eleven others, were obliged to 
assist the wagons up the hills, by pushing at the wheels. 
All along this route decaying bodies and skeletons of men j 
are lying. Some of the bodies still had their clothing on, 
and the stench was almost intolerable. The road was also 
strewed with mules, which had died in numbers on their 
W2y to Monterey. 

29fA. — The road is only interesting from association. 
Many a brave man has passed it never to retrace his steps. 
Six miles from our last stopping place, we reached Seralvo. 
Here we found a regiment of volunteers on the march to 
join General Taylor. We waited till the afternoon to feed 
our horses and mules ; then marched 14 miles to another 
deserted ranch, and stopped to sleep. We saw, on our 
way, many ranches and villages tenantless and destroyed. 
While we were at Seralvo, a Mexican was caught, who 
belonged to the gang that murdered the teamsters, and 
burned up 150 wagons, which were on their way to the 
army. At three o'clock he was brought out in the plaza,; 
and placed against the wall. A file of six men, (the Texan' 
Hangers,) stood some i^n yards off. The prisoner was told 
by the Colonel that his time was at hand. He was then 
ordered to turn his back. This he not only refused to do, 
but struck fire and lighted his cigar. The word was given 
— all fired — and he fell dead. Three balls entered hir. 
breast, and three his head. A Texan, whose brother hat^ 
been murdered in the wagon train, gave a five dollar gold 
piece to take the place of one who was chosen to do this 
melancholy business. 



79 

Sunday night, 30th. — We have stopped at a town 
called Mier. I felt very weary after a travel of 36 miles. 
'This place is notorious on account of a battle that was 
gained by the Texans. Our Rangers were highly elated 
!in the thoughts of their success, and they became so drunk, 
that the defeated Mexicans took them prisoners, and 
marched them off to the city of Mexico. So much for 
the sale of rum. We met with a cordial reception at this 
place. 

Slst. — We encamped in sight of Camargo at two 
o'clock to-day. We crossed the river St. Pon in a ferry 
boat, which was pulled by means of ropes. The cross- 
ing occupied about two hours, when our troops and 
artillery were landed. This town is well fortified. It 
is the principal depot for supplies to the army, which 
come up this river in small steamers. River water is 
drank, although rendered very filthy by the carcasses of 
mules and horses, v»^hich are thrown into it. To-day 
one poor fellow was buried, who had been sick a long 
time. Many a hard jolt in the rough wagon, and hour 
of thirst and weariness had he — but he sleeps quietly and 
peacefully in his lonely rest on the banks of the St. 
Pon. 

June 1st. — On our way to the Rio Grande, this morn- 
ing one of our men v/as shot by a party of Mexicans, 
wiio had concealed themselves in the bushes. He was 
riding alone, when he was fired upon. The charge en- 
tered his hand and breast, and he fell dead. Capt. Reid 
at the head of 50 men, went after the murderers, and soon 
returned with six of them. They are to be kept in close 
confinement. 

2nd. — Our officers were in an unpleasant dilemma. 
They did not know how to dispose of the prisoners, and 
after some debate, they concluded to turn them loose. 
A file of soldiers was detailed for that purpose. They 
took them some miles off, and soon returned, announcing 
that they had turned them loose. At 4 o'clock we left, 
and travelled all night through a thick forest of muskeet 
trees and brushwood. About sunrise we arrived at Co- 
lumbus, where we found several steamers ready for us. 



80 

Many of us were miserably disordered from our weary 
midnight march. We encamped on the Rio Grande. 
This evening our cannon was sent down the river two 
miles to be shipped. 

Sd. — Orders were received at an early hour for the 
troops to bring forward their saddles, rigging, &c., to be 
valued. 4^ most unsightly mass was soon presented, as the 
dilapidated articles were gathered in a heap. Our Ser- 
geant gave notice he should value them as condemned 
property, it being impossible to transport them. A large 
fire was then made, and all were consumed. Our horses 
were placed in charge of a Mr. Van Bibber, who for a 
stipulated sum engaged to drive them through Texas to 
Missouri, and leave them at any point we might designate. 
We walked a mile to the beach, where several stejvmers 
awaited us. The sick went immediately on board. Two 
or three companies started, whilst the rest of us were de- 
tained till very late to assist in shipping the cannon. Orders 
were given that we should remain all night, so we went 
again on shore, spread our blankets on the beach, and spent 
the night rather uncomfortably. ■ 

4th. — It commenced raining at 3 o'clock this morning. 
After eating a breakfast of coffee and a few hard crackers, 
we hurried on board the steamer. Here we found both 
cabin and deck crowded with men. Our little steamer 
started in the midst of a heavy rain, rendering every thing 
exceedingly unpleasant. Night came on and no cooking 
could be done, so we went on shore, erected our tents, ate 
our suppers, and rested quietly through the night. 

6lk. — The bell rang at 3 o'clock for us to come on 
board, which we accomplished in the course of an hour. 
One fellow being rather slow, was left behind, but he 
regained the boat before she had gone two miles. For- 
tunately for him an accident happened to the wheel, 
which was found to be broken, thus detaining us for 
repairs several hours. We did not reach Metamoras till 
two o'clock. Here we stopped but a very few minutes, 
and proceeded on till sunset. The boat now stopped to take 
in wood, and the Captain informed us that he should leave 
at moonrise. We laid down on deck on our blankets. 



81 

Sunday, 6th. — I was awakened at one o'clock by the 
deck hands, to make room to haul in the foot plank. I 
found m3^self drenched with fdthy water, which had run 
under me as I slept. Quietly folding up my blanket, I 
thought I would make no complaint, as I was near my 
journey's end. About sunrise we reached the Balize, 
when all hands landed and erected the tents. After break- 
fast, with a number of others, I went to bathe in the sea. 
We let the breakers pass over our heads. They came in 
such force, that in my present reduced state, I found it 
difficult to stand up under them. Nor could I remain long 
in the w^ater. 

Ith. — We are encamped on the banks of the Rio Grande, 
eight miles from the shipping, which is on the opposite 
side of this narrow neck of land. 

8th. — A regiment of regulars landed to-day, on, their 
way to the seat of war. No ship has appeared as yet to 
take us off. 

9th. — This morning we had orders to start for Brazos 
Santiago, nine miles from this place. We had not pro- 
ceeded far through the deep sand, when it became neces- 
sary to for those who had the remnant of shoes, to pull 
them off, on account of the sand gathering in them, it 
being above the ankle at every step. Our feet became 
badly blistered by the heat and friction. Most gladly did 
I spread my blanket on the sand and enjoy a night of rest, 
after the fatigues of the day. We are not yet at the end 
of this uncomfortable journey. The shipping is in sight, 
and a short march in the morning will relieve the weary 
teams of their burdens. 

10th. — We are all on board — artillery, baggage, and a 
motley crew of 250 men, with unshaved faces, ragged 
and dirty, but all in fine spirits, save a few poor fellows, 
whose thin visages show the ravages of disease and 
suffering. 

nth. — The past has been a memorable night. For 
suffering I have not experienced its equal in all my 
peregrinations through life. In the brig, on board of 
which we took passage, there were 100 bunks, (a slight 
elevation made of plank,) for the soldiers to sleep on. 



82 

When I got in mine, the crowd was so great and the air 
so oppressive, that I thought I would get out and take a 
few pulls at the fresh atmosphere. Groping along in the 
dark, I endeavored to find some place of egress, but the 
whole gangway was strewed with men, and I was forced 
to return, amid a shower of blessings from the poor fellows 
on whom I had the misfortune to tread, I laid the rest of 
the night in this hot place, more dead than alive. There 
was not the slightest air, and I was covered with a profuse 
perspiration. 

12th. — An inspection of this brig, which was beautiful 
in its exterior, convinced me that it was a filthy place 
indeed; especially between decks. It was certainly worse 
than a hog-pen, for just above our bunks there was a sty, 
in which were several of the real material. Two small 
fires were built for the soldiers to cook with, and so many 
crowded around them, all anxious to be served, that a long 
time elapsed before I could get my coffee. As a matter of 
convenience we were supplied with hard crackers and 
molasses. This diet only increased my disease, and I turn- 
ed a longing eye on a large turtle which had been killed, 
and was being served up for our othcers and the inmates 
of the cabin. 

ISth. — Our allowance of water was a coffee pot full 
twice a day for coffee, and a pint a piece for each man to 
drink ; a hogshead had been drawn upon deck for our use. 
There is a guard kept throughout each day, over this 
hogshead of miserable water, not fit for horses to drink. 
It was with mingled feelings of admiration and sorrow 
that I saw our brave fellows, who had borne the fatigues 
of the march, and the strong blows of the battle, come 
humbly around the hogshead, which was a central point 
of attraction, and ask for a little cup of water, when they 
were almost famished, and could drink several pints, were 
it allo\ved them. It is a gloomy Sabbath evening, nearly 
calm. 

lAih. — We are running S. E. by E.. though the boat 
scarcely glides alono-, there being a calm. It seems that 
the water is becoming scarcer to-day. The Captain has 
directed that a quart only shall be given to each man for 



83 

all purposes. And it is to last 24 hours. When this 

was announced one of the men muttered something which 

I did not hear, but which the Captain disliked ; for he told 

us all, that if any one made another threat, he would 

f blow his brains out as quick as he would shoot a rattle- 

] snake. When this threat was heard, the men all roared 

out in a hearty laugh. The Captain was of middle size, 

, somewhat corpulent, swarthy in complexion, and blind in 

^ his right eye. He was rough in his manners, but talked 

very little, especially to us privates. He is master of the 

{ brig, and is employed by government to convey troops 

, across the ^uif. His name is Woodsides. This morning 

, about a pint of water was issued to each man. Of course, 

no coiFee is made. We mixed a little vinegar with some 

j water, and with crackers and molasses, made out our sup- 

. per. Two dolphins were caught by the sailors, and one 

, of our men caught a young shark. Another turtle is 

■ served up for the cabin, it was so warm that I could 

not skep in my bunk, but lay in the gangway, on m.y 

[ blanket. At midnight a steamer came alongside, and 

the Captain took on board several barrels of water. It 

was truly a blessing for us. 

loth. — Cojftee and fried shark for breakfast, but a dread- 
, ful sore mouth, (which I fear is the scurvy,) makes the 
eating a painful performance. Every indication of land 
was near. At 12 o'clock the Captain said we were 80 
] miles from the Balize. In anticipation of a storm, the 
sails were furled, but a little sprinkle of rain was all, and 
we ag;ain spread our canvass to the breeze. A sailor was 
sent aloft to see if the light house was in sight, and after 
remaining in the cross trees two hours, he came down 
and said he saw it. A short time after the cry was 
heard, ''the p:lot boat is coming." Sails were furled, 
and the pilot was soon on board. In the meantime some 
one cried "three cheers for Capt. Woodsides!" The cry 
was echoed by the crowd, and Capt. Woodsides looked 
bullets. A flag was placed on the bow, a steamer came 
alongside and towed us over the bar, where our Captain 
anchored. We now draw water up the sides of the ship, 
for we are in the Mississippi river, 100 miles from New 



84 

Orleans. The water is good and there is plenty of it, as 
the river is full. Every man has just as much as he can 
use, and we use it freely enough. After supper I went 
to my bunk, but found it too warm to rest in, so I took 
my blanket, and laid down as usual, in the gangway, 
but not being able to stretch my feet out, in consequence 
of a sack of bacon in the way, I got up and searched 
about, and at length found an empty bunk of some one 
who had gone on deck to spend the night. I felt weak 
and sick from the heat. 

IQlL — We drew our water from the river to get some 
breakfast ; the sailors are washing off the deck, and if 
any man happens in the way, he is sure of having a 
bucket full thrown on hira ; of course several of our boys 
have had a good drenching. At 8 o'clock a steamei 
took us tow. As we proceeded up the Mississippi, we 
beheld on its banks large plantations of the sugar cane, 
which present a lovely contrast with some countries over 
which I have marched. On the left side of the river is 
Fort Jackson, now nearly in ruins, but still a beautiful 
place. With several of our men I slept on the deck of 
the steamer. We were all in good spirits at the prospect 
of getting home, though the want of a change oi clothes 
at this particular juncture is keenly felt. Some are cov 
ered with filth and vermin, which have kept their hiding 
places within our garments for many a long day. 

11 th. — We are now among the thick settlements and 
sugar plantations which line the river as we approach the 
city. I remained most of the night on deck, and ate an 
early "breakfast of the usual diet. Afterwards Capt. Hud- 
son had one of his big guns taken up, and tired a salute as 
we passed a pretty little village. We are now on the 
site of the battle ground, where General Jackson fought 
the English in 1814 — continued our course up the river, 
and fired several times. At last, we were safely landed 
on the wharf in New Orleans. Upon my head there was 
no hat, having lost my last remnant overboard in the 
Gulf. My pants I had thrown away three days before, 
because (being composed of deerskin, worn into tatters,) 
I despaired of making them look decent. A pair of 



85 

drawers, rather the worse for wear, and an old overcoat, 
constituted my dress. If, to this description of my person 
I add that my hair, beard, and mustachios, had been left 
to vegetate undisturbed ever since I left Fort Leavenworth, 
then some idea may be formed of the accomplished soldiers 
of Col. Doniphan's command. 

I8th. — In company with twelve others, I got in an om- 
nibus to search for some clothes and quarters ; came three 
miles to a large clothing establishment, where our wants 
as to garments were soon supplied. The barber next 
exercised his skill, and it was with many an amusing jest 
and laugh that we regarded erich others' altered and im- 
proved appearance. Comfortable quarters were secured, 
and to-night I am reposing in a quiet boarding house. 
Here I feel that no homage of my soul is profound enough 
to render due adoration to that gracious Providence who 
has protected and guided me, while marching over the 
wild plains, and through the mountain passes of Mexico. 

*' Deserts in vain opposed our onwara course ; 

O'er hostile lands and wild untravelled wastes. 
Our journey we pursued, nor feared the floods, 

Through deep ravines that flow ; dire banked with death; 
Nor mountains in whose jaws destruction grinned. 

Though floods rapacious roaring as they rolled. 
And mountains huge and rough were circled round 

By rjving bands of restless savage foes." 

22nd. — On Sunday last I went to the M. E. Church 
and listened to an excellent sermon. I was kindly in- 
vited by a stranger, who introduced himself to me, to 
dine and spend the evening with him. I complied with 
his request, and was pleasantly entertained. A^fter tea I 
returned to my boarding house, which is kept by a Mr. 
Wren, and whose charge is moderate, viz. $4 per week. 
On my lirst introduction here I committed a blunder, the 
thought of which has frequently caused me to smile. It 
shows the contrast between a camp life and the more 
polished proceedings of life in the city. When I was 
called to the first meal, I seated myself at the table in the 
8 



presence of my hostess, and commenced operations as I 
supposed in a manner the most polite and refined. Cast- 
ing a glance at the lady, I observed that she was eyeing 
me with a curious interest. The smile that played upon 
her lip, told me that she was amused at some awkward- 
ness of mine, or some oddity in my appearance. And 
what was my surprise when I found that I had jerked my 
old knife from my pocket, and was cutting my meat placed 
upon my bread in the usual way. The habit had been 
fixed upon me, and notwithstanding the neat arrangements 
of the table, I could not resist the propensit}^ to indulge in 
my camp customs. 

26M. — On board the steamer Louisville, bound for 
Cincinnati. The boat is crowded, but a mattress on 
which to lie is a luxury. A few hours ago, I parted with 
many of my fellow soldiers and friends, with feelings 
w^hich it is impossible for me to describe. I am not in a 
situation to continue w^ith the regiment until it reaches its 
final destination. My mouth is so sore that the least 
effort to masticate my food is very painful, and I cannot 
eat, now that I have before me ail the luxuries of life ; * 
and even if I could, it vrould be improper for me to do so, 
on account of a long continued diarrhoea and pain in my 
breast and side. I feel that 1 am greatly changed, when 
I compare the present wdth the time when I last glided 
over this beautiful stream. Then so full of health and 
anticipations of pleasures and happiness, now, a sick 
soldier — a mere skeleton of a man, bronzed by the burn- 
ing ra3^s of a Mexican sun, and worn down by the pro- 
longed fatigue of travelling, watching and toil. I re- 
gret very much that I cannot go to St. Louis, as request- 
ed by Colonel Doniphan, where an enthusiastic reception 
is awaiting him. To express myself in measured terms 
about our Commander, would not be expressive of my 
feelings, and I feel how utterly incompetent I am to utter 
his eulogy. The man who can familiarise himself with 
the poorest private, by some kind word, or ride amonoj the 
troops, and make us forget that we were hungry or thirsty, 
by some pleasant converse, in our long and toilsome 
march j — the man who can forget his own personal 



87 



«fptv in the hour of danger, and rise superior to every 
eSrassment-^ can be prepared for every emer- 
eetv by superior skill in the tactics of war-as well as 
f r' ffned'^sense of honor, and an open suavity ol manner, 
notonlvleadincr captive the hearts of his entire command, 
bu thoCn^sof tlL hostile foe-such a man .s a J.ea- 
«nrp to society, an honor to his country. And, sucti a 
manttheTrave Doniphan. It was with the feelings 
rf a'brother or afriend to whom I owed many obligations, 
it I grasped the hand of this great man, who kindly 

-Slou:^.SrrarLS;.goodheadway.„p 
the iiv;r, parsed Baton Rouge, and at nine o'clock atmght 

'Tsttt:eATGi:nAG^^\^ ^^ 10, and at 2 got to 
ViSurg"^ The pleasure of fe-ting my eyes on scenes 

!Vat&\ttet?c::pe=*^^ ^ ^Ht!^ -— 
"•?(;;r.^l"^5rtimerln:S^%Iemph;s. Thereis 
..ome excitUnt onboard A man labonng under tie 
effect of mania potu is quite '^f ^Jj^^f^^^ J^^P ed 
severaltimes to jump ^^fZjfoTofoJ^icL 
the ladies' caDm and struck nis wi.e , mi 

\j;Jltt^gentlcrnan. He made much useless resis- 
^^""JX I'f -Slept but little— the surrounding bustle 

Z^Z. arl eagerly awaitb^g me in my na .e^^ome^^ 

We'J Rrver, J'^^f ^^J^h^ncU^p^^ in the arms of his 
cannotshed tears of 3^' ^^^^,,;;*JP of nearly two years, 
awed widow mother, atter an aoseuLc „, i , ri j 

shape and feature. 



It ivere an endless task to attempt any thino- like a 

w " t^'vel w"Pn°" "^ '}'\ P"i °f M^exico (hrougl? which 
we traveked. Our route lay for the most part on thp 

Cr^J'tr'^' f^' ^"'"'^ ^■'^°'« '^^^d waters ?fse' ^ le 
Green Mountams, several hundred miles above Sa ta 

eas'ilv fordeTl'^l™**!' "'"""''"'y "^ ^exas, and can be 
^be L at almost any point above El Passo. In 

t e dry season it ,s extremely low, and can be of very 
little importance for navigation, except near its mouth 
which flows into the Gulf of Mexico. It is thouglT tl is' 
nver has a course of from 15 4o 1800 miles. The foun ry 
tendTnff' ^'"f *---f ^ by a range of mounta n ex^ 
I at Iverv .h r r'-*^fd._ Among the inhabitants, 
JZu I ^'^fde of complexion, from a dark swarthy 
amonith'e ° .^'^"^ P^'^/ J^^- But few are handsonS 
among the ladies ; and this is principally to be attributed 
to tne„. g,.e,t love of coloring "the s'kin^with redpatt 

life Tb.?r r? *'^'?S,''T"^ the bare necessaries of 
lite The r flocks and herds constitute their nrincinal 
nches,a„d their implements of husbandy, are a of the 
T.tTA" '^''^'^T- Their ploughing such as t is 
four 0x1 ^^ Tt'' P ""^h, to whfch il"attached two o 
toui oxen, and the wheat is slightly covered over 
having been previously sown on the hard ground. There 
are some fertile valleys in this mountainous range but 
the poor simple inhabitants have very little idea of tak- 
ing advantage of the natural resources of their cointt 
After we left Chihuahua, fields of cotton and corn ntef: 

anait nnH t\» TY' ""■" ^''1"^' ''''out a day's journey 
sDo' i^n. %T>"'^'' ^'P-'*.°'^ "^*"^«'" thesi delightful 
spots IS one of the most inviting that can be ima^^ined as 
aheld of operation for the indultry and art of man The 
sod here IS fertile, and what is generally termed bottom land 

anv oTourP^Pf 'fZ' "°"'^ '''^ ^^'^^ - produc'vel' 
any of our western lands, as the climate is more genial 

rhey growonly a fow vegetables, of which the red^ pep- 
per appears to be a favorite; these they strin' and han^ 
on the ontsides of their houses so fhick^that oS approach? 



89 



hia I frequently thought I should see a painted dwelling, 
bul was to see only a miserable dirty^ hut. The m.^es 
of Mexico afford her principal wealth, but ol this the 
poorer classes obtain but little ; they are kept in ignorance 
and degradation by a government whicn has borne the 
name of Republican, but which every one who sojourns in 
that country must soon discover to be a mockery lor the 
mass ot the people are subject alone to the will of the Ro- 
man ciercvy, and are not free to act. There is no slave m 
anv of our Southern States whose situation they have not 
reason to envy. The women are more degraded u possible 
than the men; and more slovenly in their appearance and 
while this is the case in any country, the morals oi the 
people must remain at a low grade. Since my return I 
have heard of the enthusiastic reception of Col. Doniphan 
at St. Louis, an account of which 1 annex as published in 
the Baltimore American. Our business was not, hovyever, 
to see all that was worth seeing, but to hurry on to the 
place we started for, and when arrived at that, to make ar- 
rangements to hurry on again. 



COL. DONIPHAN'S MARCH. 



At the recent reception of the Missouri vokmteers un- 
der Col. Doniphan at St. Louis, the address of welcome 
was delivered by Mr. Senator Benton. The speech is 
characteristic — exhibiting that clear and graphic narrative, 
and those strong and concentrated expressions for which 
the Senator is remarkable. 

The orator gave an outline of the long march of this 
gallant regiment — first, a thousand miles to New Mexico, 
which became a starting point of a new departure. Then 
Chihuahua was aimed at — Chihuahua, a rich aad populous 
city of nearly thirty thousands souls, the seat of the govern- 
ment of the state of that name, and formerly the residence 
of the Captains General of the Internal Provinces under 
the vice-regal government. In advancing towards Chi- 
huahua the adventurous regiment encountered incredible 
hardships. They passed over the desert called et Jornada 
de los muertos — the journey of the dead — an arid plain of 
ninety miles strewed with the bones of animals perished 
of hunger and thirst, and marked by continual mementos 
of men who had fallen victims to the perilous way. They 
fought the enemy at the Bracito, and gained a decisive 
victory, although opposed by superior numbers, strong in 
cavalry and artillery. Again at Sacramento the intrepid 
band fought and conquered a vastly superior force, Mr. 
Benton calls that victory " one of the military marvels of 
the age." At length Chihuahua is reached and taken, and 
there the bold adventurers must pause to determine which 
way next they shall direct their steps. They had occupied 
a city about as far from St. Louis as Moscow is from Paris, 
Let Col. Benton's graphic narrative be heard : 



92 

" Chihuahua gained, it became, like Santa Fe, not the 
terminating point of a long expedition, but the beginning 
point of a new one. General Taylor was somewhere — no 
one knew exactly where — but some seven or eight hun- 
dred miles towards the other side of Mexico. You heard 
that he had been defeated — that Buena Vista had not been 
a yood prospect to him. Like good Americans you did not 
believe a word of it ; but like good soldiers, you thought it 
best to go and see. A volunteer party of fourteen, headed by 
Collins of Boonville, undertake to penetrate to Saltillo, and 
to bring you information of his condition. They set out. 
Amidst innumerable dangers they accomplish their pur- 
pose, and return. You march. A vanguard of one hun- 
dred men, led by Lieut. Colonel Mitchell, led the way. 
Then came the main body, (if the name is not a burlesque 
on such a handful,) commanded by Col. Doniphan him- 
self. 

" The whole table land of Mexico, in all its breadth, from 
west to east, was to be traversed. A numerous and hos- 
tile population in towns— treacherous Camanches in the 
mountains — were to be passed. Every thing was to be 
self-provided— provisions, transportation, fresh horses for 
remounts, and even the means of victory— and ail without 
a military chest, or even an empty box, in which govern- 
ment gold had ever reposeti. All w^as accomplished. 
Mexican towns were passed, in order and quiet : plunder- 
ing Camanches punished : means were obtained from 
traders to liquidate indispensible contributions : and the 
wants that could not be supplied, were endured like sol- 
diers of veteran service. 

" I say the Camanches were punished. And here pre- 
sents itself an episode of a novel, extraordinary, and ro- 
mantic kind— Americans chastising savages for plunder- 
ing people who they themselves came to conquer, and 
forcing the restitution of captives and of plundered pro- 
perty. A strange story this to tell in Europe, where 
back-woods character, western character is not yet com- 
pletely known. But to the facts. In the muskeet for- 
est of the Bolson de Majnmi, in the sierras around the 
beautiful town and fertile district of Parras, and in all the 



93 

open country for hundreds of miles round about, the sav 
age Camanches have held dominion ever since the usurper 
Santa Anna disarmed the people ; and sally forth from 
their fastnesses to slaughter men, plunder cattle, and carry- 
off women and children. An exploit of this kind had just 
been performed on the line of the Missourians' march, 
not far from Parras, and an advanced party chanced to 
be in that town at the time the news of the depredation 
arrived there. It w^as only fifteen strong. Moved by 
gratitude for the kind attentions of the people, especially 
the women, to the sick of General Wool's command, 
necessarily left in Parras, and unwilling to be outdone 
^.y enemies in generosity, the heroic fifteen, upon the 
spot, volunteered to go back, hunt out the depredators, 
and punish them, without regard to numbers. A grateful 
Mexican became their guide. On their way they fell in 
with fifteen more of their comrades ; and, in short time, 
seventeen Camanches killed out of sixty-five, eighteen 
captives restored to their families, and three hundred and 
fifty head of cattle recovered for their owners, was the fruit 
of this sudden and romantic episode. 

" Such noble conduct was not without its effect on the 
minds of the astonished Mexicans. An official document 
from the Prefect of the place to Captain Reid, leader 
of this detachment, attests the verity of the fact, and the 
gratitude of the Mexicans ; and constitues a trophy of 
a new kind in the annals of war. Here it is in the original 
Spanish, and I will read it off in English. 

" It is officially dated from the Prefecture of the Depart- 
ment of Parras, signed by the Prefect Jose Ignacio 
Arrabe. and addressed to Captain Raid, the ISth of May, 
and sa3^s : 

" ' At the first notice that the barbarians, after killing 
many, and taking captives, were returning to their 
haunts, you generously and bravely offered, with fifteen 
of your subordinates, to fight them on their crossing by 
the Pozo, executing this enterprise with celerity, address 
and bravely worthy of all eulogy, and worthy of the bril- 
liant issue which all celebrate. You recovered many ani- 
mals and much plundered property ; and eighteen cap- 



94 

tives were restored to liberty and to social enjoyment, their 
souls overflowing with a lively sentiment of joy and 
gratitude, w^hich ail the inhabitants of this town equally 
breathe, in favor of their generous deliverers and their 
valiant chief. The half of the Indians killed in the com- 
bat, and those which fly wounded, do not calm the pain 
which all feel for the wound which your excellency re- 
ceived defending Christians and civilized beings against 
the rage and brutality of savages. All desire the speedy 
re-establishment of your health ; and although they know 
that in your own noble soul will be found the best reward 
of your conduct, they desire also to address you the ex- 
pression of their gratitude and high esteem. I am honored in 
being the organ of the public sentiment, and pray you to 
accept it, with the assurance of my most distinguished 
esteem. 

'•'God and Liberty!'" 

''This is a trophy of a new kind in war, won by thirty 
Missourians, and worthy to be held up to the admiration of 
Christendom.' '' 

The regiment arrived at Gen. Taylor's camp at Mon- 
terey, and reported themselves ready for duty. They 
were prepared to go with the hero of Buena Vista to San 
Luis Potosi, or Zacatecas, or the city of Mexico. They 
regarded not their fatigues nor the approaching expira- 
tion of their term of service. " But unhappily," says Mr. 
Benton, " the conqueror of Palo Alto, Resaca de la jPalma, 
Monterey and Buena Vista, was not exactly in the con- 
dition that the Lieutenant General, might have been, 
intended him to be. He Vv^as not at the head of 20,000 
men ! he w^as not at the head of any thousands that 
would enable him to march ! and had he to decline the 
proffered service. Thus the long marched and well fought 
volunteers — the rough, the ready, and the ragged — had to 
turn their faces towards home, still more than two thousand 
miles distant." 

The last nine hundred miles of the land march from 
Chihuahua to Matamoras was made in forty-five days, 
with seventeen pieces of artillery, eleven of which had 
been taken from the enemy. During ail their long march 



93 

:his regiment of hardy soldiers received from the Govern- 
nent not a dollar of pay ; they furnished for the most part 
heir own supplies and forage and clothing, and yet brought 
)ack nearly their whole number. " You marched farther 
han the farthest," says Mr. Benton, '• you have fought as 
yell as the best, left order and quiet in your train, and 
jost less money than any." 

Col. Doniphan made an eloquent address in reply to the 
)ration of welcome, and towards the close of it, he turned 
;o his men, the companions of his toils and dangers, and 
jaid : 

" You have endured much toil and hardship. It is now 
ibout to terminate. You have arrived once more in the 
and of civilized society, and again we are citizens mingling 
with our feilow-citizens. Your lot has been a hard one in 
nany respects. 

" Before reaching New Mexico, by two hundred miles, 
^ou were on half rations, and never afterwards, for a single 
day, during our long and arduous march to Saltillo, did you 
receive full rations." Yet all this you have borne, and you 
bave borne it with fortitude. The order which you re- 
ceived to march in Major Gilpin's command, with a large 
column, over the Sierra Madre, covered with perpetual 
5now — proceeding on your march on shortened allowance, 
without tents or transportation, and many other comforts, 
because the Government was unable to furnish them ; yet 
you bore it all, and were ready to resume your march in 
two days on the city of Chihuahua. You have travelled 
over five states of Mexico, and five very large ones, in 
point of territory. 

'• Perhaps the citizens of St. Louis do not know what a 
Bonava is, but I will answer for every man in my com- 
mand, knowing what they are. I may assure you, had 
you crossed them, you, too, would have known what 
they are. The shortest one that we crossed, was fifty 
miles, and one ninety-five miles, which we crossed in 
three days in December, without wood, without water, 
without tents, at an elevation of 7000 feet above the 
Atlantic ocean. In sending expresses to the distance of 
600 miles, when I was unable to furnish them with the 



means of carrying pfo\^sion and other comfort with them 
over immense sand prairies, covered with snow, I have 
never made a detail, Dut all w^ere volunteers, or when I 
have sent out parties for the purpose of watching the ene- 
my, who have had to starve for days, I never made a detail 
in this ^oiumA, hut al} we'-e valnnteers, and I am proud to 
«ay it'* 



146 






'"' \ o"^ ■°" 
°4. •" «.° % *"^' «# °1. '•> 




. ^r ^ 







55°^ -^^ 

















^^-■* 



•^-..♦^ ■ jmi^' '^^ '* ' 



^^. .4' 






















0' .^ 

















^0^ 











POrA," 



V .^ ^ 



y ,., % '" 



